Toasting Our Past At Tomorrow's Banquet

September 16, 1987|By Deborah Scoblionkov, Special to The Inquirer

Tomorrow night, when 1,600 guests sit down to celebrate the signing of the Constitution at the black-tie dinner at the Civic Center, they will participate in the Thirteen Toasts ceremony, a tradition that began 200 years ago to encourage all the states to ratify the Constitution. But as the glasses are raised, six of the eight wines (plus an after-dinner Cognac) will be French - not American.

Pourquoi? You may well ask. It's true that in 1787, American wines were so horrific that many of the Constitution framers preferred imported wines. But, the French haven't been content to stop there. At times, they have barely fallen short of taking responsibility for the document itself.

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After all, some have argued, weren't the "basic tenets" of the Constitution "inspired" by the French philosopher Montesquieu's ''masterpiece," The Spirit of Laws? Perhaps, but isn't it one thing to think of something and quite another thing to do it? Did we take credit for their revolution just because ours came first?

Bordeaux wines, in particular, were singled out as being the "libation of liberated thinkers." Montesquieu cultivated a vineyard in the Graves region of Bordeaux - and, the French point out meaningfully, at the very moment that our founding fathers were signing the Constitution, Thomas Jefferson was visiting the vineyards of Bordeaux and purchasing the finest wines available to be shipped back to the new United States, wines that he later served on special occasions at the White House.

I love the French (in spite of themselves) and don't want to appear ungrateful. I adore their wines and admire their generosity in donating 500 bottles of fine wine for our celebration - a selection of which were offered at a recent tasting at Frog.

But doesn't it seem to be stretching a point to compare Bordeaux wines' longevity to that of the U.S. Constitution? (A recently uncorked bottle of 1787 Medoc appeared to be in mint condition, French wine experts report.) Indeed, the French hint that 1787's being a very good year in Bordeaux bestows a special significance to the birth of our Constitution. To us, this might seem a bit arrogant, but we must forgive them. To the French way of thinking, these are probably the highest compliments they could possibly pay.

Guests at the Constitution gala will be welcomed with glasses of nonvintage Domaine Chandon Brut, an excellent, crisp Napa Valley sparkling wine (it is owned by the French firm of Moet & Hennessy).

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