Given this freedom, the temptation to order up rich, expensive wines for the occasion might seem the obvious thing. But an even stronger case can be made for more streamlined wines that will revive rather than compound the assault on the senses.
This approach has adherents in some fairly noteworthy culinary quarters. In Alsace, heavyweight specialties, such as foie gras, choucroute and Muenster cheese (real Muenster, the stuff skunks mistake for a long-lost relative) are mated with full-flavored, but not overly alcoholic, white wines. Emilia, the culinary capital of Italy, turns to a local product that you may have heard of called Lambrusco for washing down its rich pastas and spicy sausages.
I'm hardly suggesting that Gallo Chablis Blanc and Riunite are up to such a special occasion as Thanksgiving, but given the theme of harvest freshness and the inevitable diversity of preferences at such a time, think twice before choosing a complex wine that demands too much attention; you may be disappointed by the outcome.
With this principle in mind, here are a few ideas ranging from trendy to traditional, with the focus on American products for this most American of holidays. Prices are approximate and vary from state to state.
APERITIFS. Thanksgiving is the perfect excuse to begin laying in sufficient quantities of sparkling wine to tide you through the New Year. It is always an elegant opener, but die-hard lovers of the bubbly might even decide to serve it through the meal. Three top-notch sparklers from Sonoma are Robert Hunter's 1982 Brut de Noirs ($13 to $16), Chateau St. Jean's 1983 Brut ($14) and the 1984 Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee ($18). Last holiday season, I was also impressed by Wente's 1981 Arroyo Seco Brut ($9); the 1982 vintage (also $9) has now begun to appear locally.
