Northern Italian Food At Its Best In Berwyn

January 10, 1988|By John V. R. Bull, Inquirer Staff Writer

With the opening of Avanti, an excellent northern Italian restaurant on Lancaster Avenue, Berwyn once again has a worthy place for fine dining.

Avanti opened two months ago on the site of the unlamented Baxter's Saloon & Eatery; prior to Baxter's, the building was the home of the Continental - like Avanti, a very fine restaurant.

While the menu offers a relatively standard selection of Italian dishes, impressive execution makes the food a standout.

Indeed, a portent of fine things to come was evident with the first taste of the stuffed mushrooms appetizer ($4.75) - eight firm button caps filled with finely chopped prosciutto and shallots, bathed in a white wine sauce and finished with a veneer of Parmesan.

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From a list of 10 pasta dishes offered either as an appetizer or entree, homemade lasagna ($3.90 and $7.50) - a generous portion of firm pasta layered with ricotta and slathered with tomato sauce enriched with ground beef and sausage - made a wonderful first course. Ziti and asparagus ($3.90 and $7.75) was slightly overcooked pasta with firm chunks of green asparagus in a well- made tomato sauce; sprinkled with parsley, it was a good dish that cried out for a few twists from a pepper mill.

Rich, home-cooked minestrone ($1.50) was oil-touched broth chock-full of baby lima beans, peas, fresh tomato, carrots, pasta, white beans, corn, onions, green beans and shreds of beef. Hot garlic bread ($1.25), redolent of garlic, was drenched with melted butter.

Dinner began with a complimentary dish of moderately spicy green chili peppers in oil, a real taste treat, and a wicker basket of crusty Italian bread with commercial butter tubs.

A salad of iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, grated carrots and red cabbage and peeled cucumber rounds was notable for its crusty, homemade croutons - and the little chunk of ice hidden beneath the greens to keep them chilled.

Main dishes were equally delightful, particularly veal saltimbocca ($12.95), which was three delicate cutlets topped with prosciutto, fresh mushrooms and a slice of mozzarella and enrobed in a robust Madeira sauce. It came with a medley of carrots, peas, corn and green beans. Scallops Avanti ($10.25) offered tender deep-sea scallops and fresh mushrooms sauteed in brandy and light cream and served atop al dente cappellini, the delicate angel hair pasta.

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