On the other hand, if deli to you means peanut butter and jelly, Italian meatballs, cheesesteaks, tuna subs, American cheese with mayonnaise, or ham- and-Swiss sandwiches, neither Norm nor Lou will let you down.
The restaurant is spacious and clean and has comfortable seating. However, if you stop by for lunch, you might have to wait in line for one of those comfortable seats. And on Sundays, well, if you think it's crowded at weekday lunches. . . .
Prices at Norm and Lou's are reasonable. The food is fresh, and the overall preparation is certainly up to par in all cases - except when certain ethnic tastes become very subjective. For example:
"My mother never made lukshen kugel (noodle pudding ($1.25)) like this. It's too sweet. It's almost like a custard," said one diner. "Well," answered another, "that's exactly how my grandmother made it."
Or:
"The hot brisket of beef sandwich with beef gravy ($6.75) is really delicious, but I wonder why they put it on white bread."
Such small quirks of modern deli-dining aside, Norm and Lou's is not apt to disappoint you. There is a crisp brightness to the various dishes, and the service - from the polite hostesses to the attentive servers - is swift and silent.
Cabbage borscht (cup, $1.50; bowl, $2.25) was a smooth and evenhanded version. It wasn't too sweet, and it wasn't too sour. There was the right amount of tomato, and the broth - though a tad light in body - had a nicely developed flavor.
The matzo-ball soup (cup, $1.25; bowl, $1.95) was average chicken broth filled with tender noodles and a large matzo ball that was so light, fluffy and airy it would put to rest all those leaden-matzo-ball jokes.
I guess the hot pastrami with melted American cheese ($5.25) is what happens three generations after Ellis Island. It was, however, rather good (if you're used to such things) and was served on rye bread along with huge and crisp french fries.
A side order of kasha and bow ties ($1.50) had good flavor, but the bow-tie noodles were a bit soft, and there could have been more kasha.
From the fountain, there's a fresh-fruit smoothie ($1.95), Dr. Brown's sodas (95 cents), seltzer (45 and 60 cents) and egg creams ($1.50). The egg creams come in chocolate or vanilla, and arrive in huge ice-cream-soda glasses, along with ice cubes.
NORM AND LOU'S
County Line and Shoemaker Roads, Huntingdon Valley, 364-5007
Open: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays through Sundays
Price range: $1.50 to $10.75
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express
Nonsmoking section: No
Facilities for handicapped: Yes
Atmosphere: The new generation of delis
