Putting Some Pep(per) In The Peanut Butter Don't Just Think Sweet Spread. Think Spicy Sauce, Savory Soup And Zesty Chili.

March 08, 1989|By Andrew Schloss, Special to The Inquirer

There's another side to peanut butter, and it's not sweet.

Spicy and fragrant, blistering from cayenne and seductively laced with a scent of coriander, it's the soul of an Indonesian sate, the punch of an East African peanut soup and the mellow warmth of a Mexican mole.

In the United States, where peanut butter has been cast as a sweet sandwich spread for as long as anyone can remember, we have a hard time thinking of it in any other role. We pair it with jelly, apple slices and raisins. We sugar it into cookies and pie fillings, and we largely ignore its potential as a rich, subtly complex and savory flavoring agent.

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This would shock the great horticulturist George Washington Carver, who promoted hundreds of savory uses for peanuts in American cuisine, including peanut butter. Some of his influence can still be seen south of the Mason- Dixon Line in the frequent appearance on regional menus of fried chicken with peanut cream gravy and Tuskegee soup, a mild bisque of chicken stock and peanut butter.

Native to Peru and Brazil, peanuts had been spread by Spanish and Portuguese explorers and slave traders into West Africa, Southeast Asia and the South Pacific islands by the end of 17th century.

Though cooks in these parts of the world use peanut butter just as much as Americans, they would never think to spread it on bread, just as you'd probably be hard-pressed to spice up your favorite brand of peanut butter and pour it over chicken or fish.

Tropical cuisines long ago discovered that the creamy oils in peanut butter are the perfect balm for the sharp bite of a hot pepper, and its natural nutty complexity takes on new nuance when enhanced with exotic aromatics such as cumin, ginger, cardamom and coriander. Pureed and smooth, it is a quick thickener for sauces and soups. Coarsely ground and chunky, it adds textural interest to baked goods and sauces.

Mix peanut butter with seasonings and a bit of vinegar or skim-milk yogurt for a lowfat salad dressing, cold sauce or dip. Use it to instantly thicken a chili, and to balance the fiery acid of the broth with its own naturally sweet richness.

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