Curry On Down For An Experience In Taste From New Delhi Via N.y.

October 13, 1989|By Gerald Etter, Inquirer Food Writer

If, while discussing restaurants, someone says what sounds like "new deli," that person may not be talking bagels and lox. Indian food may be the subject. And the place then will be the New Delhi restaurant.

Hardev Singh operated an Indian restaurant by that name in New York's Greenwich Village for about 18 years. A year and a half ago, relatives persuaded him to bring his expertise to University City.

"Everyone tells me my place (in New York) is very good, so I found this spot near the university," Singh said. The spot he speaks of is 4004 Chestnut St., a building that once housed a Chinese restaurant. The Chinese influence was evident until recently, when New Delhi installed new chandeliers.

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New Delhi's karma seems to be fulfilled these days, with prints, wall hangings and music that define its personality. And, of course, there's the wonderful, savory food.

One can enjoy a full-range Indian meal here at a reasonable price. While everyone might not agree that New Delhi is nirvana, the restaurant certainly has a high level of performance.

The curries were good on a recent visit, and the tandoori dishes even better. Seasonings were nicely used for the most part, though the mulligatawny soup ($1.95) was a bit nondescript.

Coconut soup ($1.95) sounded out of character to a dining partner but brought a smile of pleasure to his lips. It was refreshing and good-tasting - and an interesting departure.

Paneer pakoras ($3.50) were greaseless appetizer fritters filled with warm cottage cheese and lightly scented with cumin.

Deep-fried balls of potato studded with peas, called patata-wada ($2.50), were an interesting appetizer that tasted best when topped with the accompanying coriander sauce. A relish of chopped onion and mint, and a tamarind chutney also came with the appetizers.

Tandoori dishes are numerous here, and include a delicious chicken tikka ($9.45). These were thick, juicy cubes of meat broiled in the traditional clay tandoor after having been marinated in yogurt and spices.

Another worthy dish was the combination of tender lamb chunks cooked with chickpeas ($9.95). I had it prepared fairly hot - efficient servers will ask how spicy you want yours - and with its strong essence of cumin, it tasted like a chili that used lamb instead of beef and chickpeas instead of kidney beans.

Most entrees include basmati rice, cabbage, and the onion and mint chutney. Vegetable, seafood and rice dishes are available.

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