Good Grub On Tap There Are Bars In These Parts That Deserve A Toast For Their Tasty Eats; Where What's On The Plate Is As Satisfying As What's In The Glass.

Taprooms are best known for the stuff that comes out of their taps

drafts of ale and bitters, stout and amber beer. Food is usually an afterthought in these barrooms and corner saloons - a hastily assembled sandwich, a burger or a wedge of frozen pizza heated in the microwave.

But as folks who frequent these places know, there are more than a few in this region where the food is fine, and the proprietors turn out platters that would do any self-respecting restaurant proud. Call it pub grub, call it bar food - whatever you call it, a broad spectrum of ethnic, regional or just- plain-different food is available in the casual settings of the area's taverns.

What follows is a guided tour of several of these taprooms, and recommended dishes.

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As the door to Casey's Olde Ale House closes behind you - even before you scan the bar to target a stool - the olfactory equivalent of sonar rings its alarm in the back of your mind. You find yourself inhaling three times without exhaling, your mind racing to name the mouthwatering aroma.

While posting your posterior on one of the tavern's wooden stools and elbowing up to the worn hardwood, you spot the steaming roast behind the bar, browned on the outside, its juicy interior exposed by the carving knife. And your stomach begins its first gurgle.

Don't even pretend to look at a menu. When the bartender comes by to toss the baseball-replica coaster on the bar and take your order, ask him to lop off the makings of a sandwich from the 50-pound roast. After drawing you a cold one in a frosted mug, he will put the knife to work, carving thin slices of the hot rare beef.

When the torpedo-roll sandwich arrives, topped with melted provolone, you slather on the hot peppers and horseradish as the clamor in your stomach works up to a crescendo. Casey's - named after the mighty guy who took the joy from Mudville - is the place to get your stomach singing.

Casey's, 543 Lancaster Ave., Berwyn. A roast beef sandwich will set you back $3.75. Phone: 644-5086.

From Berwyn, I have to take you to this little seafood bar in Feasterville. When you walk in the door of the Copper Kettle, you are immediately reassured by the throng of people waiting to sit down at the tables and booths that line the perimeter of the bar. Even though there is no sign out on the main road, the Copper Kettle's reputation keeps it well-attended.