Plain Or Fancy, A Variety Of Pies

Apple pie variations abound, emerging every time that a new apple variety, crust recipe and savory or sweet addition is used.

There are scores of styles, from two-crusted whoppers to slim galettes. Pot pies are topped with anything from a single sheet of flaky pastry to a pillow of shortbread. There are crumb-lined apple pies and crumb-topped ones. There are glazed apple tarts, lattice-topped country fair champions and upside-down tarte tatins.

We have included recipes for flaky, sweet, crumb, nut and biscuit pastries, but any of the pie recipes here can be made with any type of crust. Good- quality commercially made pastry is widely available, frozen or refrigerated. Though these products usually can't compare to fine homemade versions, their convenience and speed make them good alternatives.

The one recipe that calls for commercial pastry is Apple Fennel Turnovers, which uses puff pastry. Though not difficult to make, working puff pastry is a long process, and commercial frozen products generally are equal to or better than homemade. The apple varieties that are best for pies are those with enough natural tang to give the apple a full fruit flavor once it has been sweetened and baked. Cortlands, Granny Smiths, Macouns, Gravensteins, McIntosh, and Winesap all work well, but feel free to experiment or substitute one variety for another in any apple pie recipe. Some popular eating apples, such as the Red Delicious and the Japanese newcomer the Fuji, are to be avoided. Though these are very juicy and snappingly crunchy for eating out of hand, they become bland and watery when baked.

Regardless of which type of apple you have, unlimited flavor variations are possible through the addition of other fruits, herbs, sweeteners, vegetables or meats. Classic combinations include raisin apple pie, walnut apple or sour cream custard apple pie. But don't overlook savory combinations. Try pot pies brimming with a sausage apple stew or tarts layering paper-thin apple wedges with slices of cheese and ham. Sauerkraut, chicken, beef, pork, veal, lamb and smoked meats all can be paired with apples.

When preparing apples for pie, or any other preparation calling for a large number of apples, you must take measures to keep peeled and sliced apples from turning brown while you are preparing the rest. Browning is an enzymatic reaction.