What is real are the airplanes at adjacent Northeast Philadelphia Airport. Most of the dining areas offer a good view of the landing field.
Although the restaurant has retained its original look, there have been some menu additions. A couple of pasta dishes are available - spinach fettuccine with seafood, and ravioli filled with shrimp and cheese (both $14.94) - along with seafood entrees.
There are also dinner specials such as the nightly 8-ounce prime rib dinner for $8.95 from 5 to 7 p.m., which includes soup or salad, vegetables, a choice of potato and the delicious cracked wheat bread.
When weather permits, you can enjoy drinks on the patio. After dark, the flickering light from the firepits adds a cozy dimension.
Overall, food at the 94th is reasonably priced and decently prepared. The only real negative we encountered was the swordfish ($17.94). Its texture was mushy and less than desirable. It would have been nice if the server had asked why only two bites were missing when the dish was taken away.
Pre-dinner, Cajun-style brie cheese ($5.94) was creamy and neatly presented with strawberries, sliced apples and grapes. Other appetizers included potato skins with melted cheese ($4.94), mushrooms stuffed with crab meat ($7.94) and clams casino ($6.94).
The 94th boasts of a faithful army that salutes its beer cheese soup - one of the selections offered with entrees. It is indeed tasty and full-bodied, though some at our table thought it also a bit salty.
Salads are crisp and fresh. If you like a honey-mustard dressing, the one at the 94th is excellent. Aside from the greens that come with dinner, there's bibb lettuce with a blue cheese vinaigrette ($1.94) and a cheesy Caesar salad ($1.94).
Large and thick - but tender - veal medallions ($15.94) scored points. They were lightly battered and prepared in a butter sauce flavored with white wine, capers and garlic. These medallions can also come with lump crab meat on a bed of spinach ($16.94)
Prime rib ($14.95 and $17.95) is a popular choice here. It's almost always tender and cooked as ordered. Charbroiled strip steak ($15.95) was also prepared as requested and was tender and juicy with excellent natural flavor. For $2 extra it comes topped with peppers, mushrooms and onions.
There are good surf-and-turf combos: prime rib with jumbo shrimp done scampi style ($17.94) or a small lobster tail ($23.94); steak with shrimp ($18.94) or small lobster tail ($24.94). Also available are chicken dishes, chopped sirloin ($9.94), calf's liver with bacon and onions ($11.94) and items for junior pilots ($5.94).
94TH AERO SQUADRON
2750 Red Lion Rd., 671-9400.
Open: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Sundays. Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Price range: Entrees, $8.95 to $22.94.
Credit cards: Major Cards.
Nonsmoking section: Yes.
Facilities for handicapped: Yes.
Atmosphere: Aviator-occupied World War I French farmhouse
