Celebrating The Culinary Glory That Still Is Greece's

September 04, 1991|By Gerald Etter, Inquirer Food Writer

The Greeks are philosophic about nearly everything, including their food. Dining in Greece is both worldly and spiritual, and frequently a culinary excursion into the fields of art and science.

Rosemary Barron, a long-time student of the culture and a teacher and lecturer on the country's cuisine, does an excellent job of capturing the Greek love affair with food in Flavors of Greece (William Morrow, $25).

Her book takes you from the ancient gardens of Crete to the tiny tavernas scattered about today's countryside. She makes use of more than 250 recipes to detail the role food plays in the Greek traditions associated with everyday life.

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"Dining in Greece," she says, "is an activity that stimulates all the senses. The food is aromatic, pungent and colorful, and it is consumed with great gusto."

Flavors of Greece includes all the standbys - stuffed grape leaves, moussaka, souvlakia and spinach pies - plus regional dishes, such as Garlic Beef from Corfu, and appetizer specialties such as Black Olives and Lentil Spread that help make up the traditional Greek meze (a platter of small appetizers).

Barron, who founded Kandra Kitchen, a highly acclaimed Greek cooking school on the islands of Crete and Santorini, devotes a good deal of her book to the ingredients, cooking equipment and techniques used in the nation's cooking.

There is also a glossary of Greek ingredients and suggested menus for various occasions. Here are some recipes from the book.

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This creamy spread is ideal for canapes.

BLACK OLIVES AND LENTIL SPREAD

1 cup green lentils, picked over, rinsed and soaked for 30 minutes in cold water to cover

1/2 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and patted dry

2 small salted anchovy filets, rinsed and patted dry

2 tablespoons dried oregano

1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

Juice of 1 large lemon

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or more to taste

FOR THE GARNISH:

Oil-cured olives

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Drain the lentils, and place in a large saucepan with cold water to cover by 3 inches. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer 30 minutes, or until they are soft but not mushy. Drain and set aside to cool; shake the colander once or twice to make sure all the lentils dry.

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