The other half of the restaurant has a separate menu with more traditional sushi, sashimi and tempura delights; either way, it seems you can't lose.
The attractive sushi bar offers a splendid variety of raw fish that can be sampled in two ways - a combination platter of choices made by the chef, or a la carte. My own sushi choices were shrimp (two pieces for $3) and yellowtail (two for $3.90). Each morsel was molded to glutinous rice and served with paper-thin shavings of fresh ginger and a dollop of wasabi (the green fiery herb like horseradish) that you mix yourself with soy sauce.
Sashimi choices, just as satisfying, were tekkamaki ($3.50) - tuna rolled in sticky rice and seaweed - and California maki ($4.50) - avocado, king crab and cucumber sticks, rolled with seaweed in sticky rice and toasted sesame seeds.
The tempura appetizer ($5.95) was carrot, shrimp, broccoli, onion, zucchini and eggplant, each dipped in an exceptionally delicate batter, then lightly deep-fried; soy-vinegar dipping sauce was warmed.
Traditional miso soup included with dinner was a rich sesame-flavored broth with bean curd, greens and wafer-thin scallion slices, served in a pretty red lacquered bowl.
Familiar sukiyaki ($12.95), the Japanese stew-like main course, was a big cast-iron dish heaped with thinly sliced beef, sweet onions, carrot flowers, cabbage, spaghetti, bean curd and pressed pollock fish in a pleasant broth, accompanied by long-grain rice.
Chirashi ($11.75), a sushi-like entree, was sliced sea bass, octopus, king crab, tuna and flounder, seated on radish threads and sticky rice dusted with sesame seeds, and served with grated ginger and the ubiquitous wasabi-soy dip.
Except for ice cream, the only dessert was yokan ($1.50), tiny green rectangles of sweet bean cake with appealingly subtle flavors. Two pieces of Japanese hard candy came with the check.
The dining experience begins with a waitress in a pretty kimono with a sash bringing a piping-hot hand towel to refresh yourself. Yokohama has no liquor license, but patrons may bring their own spirits.
The restaurant is attractively paneled in knotty pine; cafe curtains screen the storefront windows; potted plants abound. Objets d'art include a ceremonial sword, a painted plate, a scroll and wall hanging, a golden fan, dried flowers in a black vase, and a geisha doll in red silk kimono. Japanese music plays quietly in the background.
Laminated tables are set simply with burgundy cotton napkins, flimsy wood chopsticks, and bentwood chairs with cushioned seats.
YOKOHAMA
Marchwood Shopping Center, Route 100 & Marchwood Road, Exton, 524-8110.
Open: Lunch 11-2 Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5-10 Mon.-Sat., 4-9 Sun.
Price range: Appetizers average $4.50, entrees $13.
Credit cards: Major cards.
Non-smoking section: No.
Facilities for handicapped: Yes.
Atmosphere: Pleasant.
