A half-dozen small, plump mozzarella sticks ($3.95) were tasty cheese logs rolled in coarse bread crumbs and fried to a crusty finish, served with a warmed tomato-paste dipping sauce. Piping-hot dinner rolls, nicely crusty and sprinkled with sesame seeds, came in a plastic bread basket with frozen, foil- wrapped butter pats.
A generous salad of mixed greens, thinly sliced cucumber and radish, wedges of summer tomatoes, homemade croutons and grated red cabbage and carrots were accompanied by little cups of tangy honey-mustard or appealing creamy- parmesan-peppercorn dressings.
Chicken supreme ($8.95), an excellent main dish, was moist, tender, skinless breasts, sauteed in white wine with shallots and thinly sliced fresh mushrooms, then bathed in a rich cream sauce assertively sprinkled with dill. The platter included a foil-wrapped baked potato with sour cream and sauteed zucchini and onions in Italian seasonings.
Homemade Maryland crab cakes ($9.95) were two large, deep-fried patties of
crabmeat and green bell pepper in a creamy binder, nicely encrusted with coarse bread crumbs. Soft rice was flecked with carrots and red bell pepper and both entrees were garnished with a wedge of fresh watermelon.
Homemade desserts were good, particularly fresh-from-the-oven blueberry pie ($1.95) with excellent crust, thick crumb topping and filled with lots of fresh, piquant berries; warmed, it came with two small scoops of vanilla ice cream. Peach Melba cream cake ($2.25) was four layers of feathery yellow cake, layered with chocolate cream and thin slices of fresh peaches, iced with vanilla butter cream.
The bar offers fully 20 domestic and imported beers on draught, among them Harp, Foster's, Guinness, Molson, Bass and Heineken. A black-and-tan (Harp lager topped with Guinness stout) was a particular treat.
Service was pleasant and attentive.
Reed's has absolutely no atmosphere, merely one large, barn-like room, with one side reserved for smoking and nonsmoking dining areas; paneled half-walls and bare tile floor do nothing to lessen the din from the bar, two large- screen television sets and loud rock music.
Windows are framed with beautiful red-and-blue fabric curtains, valances and cafe curtains; brightly lighted, tiffany-style hanging lamps are suspended high off the floor. Tables are minimally set with blue vinyl covers, white paper placemats and napkins and commercial chairs.
Still, for good, moderately priced food, this is the place.
REED'S CENTER SQUARE HOTEL
1486 Skippack Pike, Centre Square, 275-5060.
Open: Lunch menu served 11 a.m.-11 p.m., dinner 5-9 p.m. six days. Closed Sun.
Price range: Appetizers average $4, entrees $10.
Credit cards: Visa, American Express, MasterCard.
Nonsmoking section: Yes.
Facilities for handicapped: Yes.
Atmosphere: Noisy and informal.
