More Than A Meal, It's A State Of Mind To Celebrate Or Just Get Away, Go Where The Food Is Sumptuous And The Coffee's Hot.

Posted: January 22, 1993

Brunch is more than a combination of two meals, of eating scrambled eggs and swordfish at the same sitting. Brunch is a state of mind.

And however you feel in those late morning and early afternoon hours on a Sunday, there is a brunch for you:

Dressed in your Sunday best after church or celebrating a special occasion, there are the grand buffets. Fuzzy-headed after a late Saturday night, there are the quiet and casual brunches served by a friendly face that brings lots of coffee; these are brunches that require no heavy lifting. And there are the destination brunches - set in restaurants at the end of a country drive or in the midst of Center City towers - to be made part of a day out (or, indeed, to be made a day out of).

Menus vary only slightly with most brunches - you can get eggs Benedict almost everywhere - so instead, plan by your mood. And if reading this prompts you to try your favorite brunch place, whether listed here or not, it wouldn't hurt to call ahead. Some of our favorites have either canceled (Houlihan's at the Cherry Hill Mall), dramatically changed their menu (Stazi Milano in Jenkintown) or are now available only for private parties (Victor Cafe in South Philadelphia).

The ones that we got to try offer some of the best brunches around. While not a complete listing - hey, we had to work weekends to do this story! - what follows gives some sense of the variety and the quality available. Note that prices and some dishes may have changed.

ROLLER'S

Some of the best food in Philadelphia is served at Roller's (8705 Germantown Ave., 215-242-1771), tucked in a strip shopping center at the top of Chestnut Hill, behind the trolley turnaround. We eat dinner there as often as possible, but had never tried brunch until this past spring. We got there just after the serving began at 11 a.m., and a good thing, too. The small restaurant was packed by 11:30.

But Paul Roller and his crew work hard and fast. You never feel rushed eating, but you never have to wait long for a table, either.

It's an informal setting, with diners getting the chance to watch Roller and his kitchen crew mixing such Sunday concoctions as lamb curry on brioche ($6.75) or cheese ravioli with tomato-basil cream sauce ($7.)

We started with freshly squeezed orange juice and opted for ricotta blintzes with strawberries and sour cream and red-flannel hash with a fried egg, washed down with strong coffee. Muffins were delivered before we ever ordered, and replenished as often as we liked, so we declined dessert (we never miss it at dinner time). "It's the muffins," Roller said, shaking his head as he came by our table. "Kills the dessert business."

Our brunch totaled $27.81, including tip. And note that Roller's doesn't take credit cards, but will take your check.

BRADDOCK'S TAVERN

Braddock's Tavern (39 S. Main St., 609-654-1604) in Medford is one of the best restaurants in South Jersey, according to many restaurant critics and food guides. All we can tell you is they're right.

Medford's little downtown, with its gift and country crafts shops, and the surrounding countryside, with its lovely homes, have always been a pleasant destination for a Sunday drive through Burlington County. But it was only last autumn that we finally tried Braddock's Tavern.

In keeping with the town's historic atmosphere, the restaurant's decor is of an old colonial inn, with Williamsburg-style furnishings and a blazing fireplace in the dining room.

We started off with champagne and a delicious hot chocolate with whipped cream and amaretto.

Brunch is $13.95 and begins with fresh-squeezed orange juice. Next comes a choice of a garden salad or fruit in honey and yogurt. Main courses include egg souffles, pasta, omelets, a mixed grill and (for $2.50 more) beef Wellington.

We tried Oeufs en Lafayette, which was two eggs baked in heavy cream with cheese and bacon, and Torta Rustica, which was layers of ham, smoked turkey, salami, spinach and Swiss and cheddar cheeses in an egg custard and pastry crust.

Service was prompt, and when our entrees were late in coming, the server appeared with a raspberry sorbet. "An intermezzo course," he said. "We're a little backed up in the kitchen and didn't want you not to eat."

That kind of attention to service - and the obvious attention to the food - quickly made Braddock's a new favorite.

With another glass of wine and tip, our bill totaled $49.88.

JAMEY'S

Wandering Main Street in Manayunk is made for Sunday afternoons - and so is starting with brunch at Jamey's (4417 Main St., 215-483-5354), one of the renaissance restaurants that make Main Street the fun place that it is.

Like the rest of the street, Jamey's is a little too trendy, with a little too much pastel for our taste. But the food is good and the menu interesting: fruit salad with honey lemon yogurt, grilled lamb chops with scrambled eggs or French apple sausage in brioche. The $12.95 prix fixe brunch includes appetizer, entree and hot beverage.

We started with a sparkling cider ($1.75) and a poinsettia - champagne with a splash of cranberry juice ($5.25). For appetizers we tried the duck-liver terrine with pickled vegetables and shortcake with rhubarb compote covered with chantilly cream. For our main courses we had smoked salmon with a cucumber salad and Wisconsin ricotta pie, a lightly sweetened ricotta cheese layered with muffin batter, covered with blueberry sauce and sour cream and served like a large slice of pie.

Service was surprisingly slow the Sunday in May that we were there. The restaurant was only half full. Our bill with tip came to $39.83.

SPRING MILL CAFE

This Sunday had to be different. We were already getting into a summertime rut of cutting the lawn and weeding, and we wanted an exotic, intriguing, unusual brunch that would stimulate our suburban senses.

So we went out of the country by going to Conshohocken.

Yes, we had the same reaction: Conshohocken?

But a friend who had spent time in the south of France recommended the Spring Mill Cafe (164 Barren Hill Road, 215-828-2550). And when we called for reservations and heard the cheery "Bonjour!" on the phone, our anticipation built. We were not let down.

The cafe, which also serves lunch and dinner, is on a lovely, winding road, just a few yards from a small brook (and actually a mile or so outside of town). While the dining room looks like a Parisian bistro, we opted for the back deck, near the brook, under a bright umbrella.

Brunch is ordered from a menu that ranges from such appetizers as warmed goat cheese, black bean salad or a daily soup special (prices from $3.50 to $8.50) to brunch specials that include an omelet with choice of filling or a poached egg in brioche (both $7.50) to entrees of lamb chops, spinach pie or grilled mushrooms and shrimp in a ginger sauce (prices from $8.50 to $11.50).

The moss on the roof of the house next door and the charming accent of our waitress gave us just the recharge we needed, taking us away from thoughts of our backyard mulch and delivering us to a foreign land that was only minutes

from home.

When calling for a reservation we were invited to bring our own wine (3 percent charge for set-ups) but opted to stick to sparkling cider ($4 a glass). We tried the crepes with strawberries and sour cream ($5.50) and the rabbit stew prepared in an incredible mustard sauce ($12.50) that was a special that day. A 15 percent gratuity automatically added to our tab brought the total to $45.40. (The cafe does not take credit cards, but does accept checks.)

Worth every cent and cheaper than a flight on the Concorde.

SFUZZI

Sunday mornings can be one of the best days to wander Center City. The canyons between the new skyscrapers on Market Street are empty. No suits running from the law offices and brokerage houses, just the occasional tourist staring at William Penn atop City Hall down the block.

A good way to enjoy this serenity is sitting in the glass atrium of Sfuzzi (1650 Market St., 215-851-8888), with the sun filtering down and opera playing lightly in the background. The restaurant at One Liberty Place serves a brunch that made us worry - how could they offer so much good food at such a good price and stay in business for long?

Go hungry. The $14.50 prix fixe brunch begins with a drink - we tried the house special, a frozen "sfuzzi," kind of like a plum Slurpee. It allows visits to an antipasti bar that elsewhere would be a brunch in itself - Caesar salad, artichoke pie, fruit salad, fresh mozzarella with tomatoes and pesto, bagels, vegetable salads. Then you order an entree, anything from a pizza with scrambled eggs, bacon and mushroom (hey, it is brunch) to linguine carbonara. Then dessert - they all look good, but try the creme brulee.

For our entrees we tried the pan-seared beef tenderloin with scrambled eggs and spicy red potatoes, and the grilled salmon hash cakes with poached eggs.

Our total with tip was $35. Service was a little spotty, but on a beautiful day, the sun shining and an empty Center City waiting for you, who cared?

TREETOPS

One of our favorite places in Center City is Rittenhouse Square. The square, like brunch, is made for Sunday afternoons. Being lazy. Enjoying the view. Watching people go by.

You can do all that from TreeTops (Rittenhouse Hotel, Rittenhouse Square, 215-546-9000), the restaurant at the Rittenhouse Hotel on the west side of the square, where we saw: a young couple reading the Sunday paper, a 90-year-old woman celebrating her birthday and a couple of newlyweds (their rings still sparkled) with their in-laws.

We enjoyed the food and the view from the second-story window of the joggers, walkers and sitters on the square.

Brunch is prix fixe. For $17.95, you can start with cereals, soup, fruit or another appetizer, then try a hearty main course that ranges from crabcakes to eggs with potato cakes and bacon, sausage or ham to a houseground hamburger on a kaiser roll. For $22.95, the appetizers include a bagel with salmon or a Caesar salad, and the main course includes eggs Benedict and a three-egg omelet with shrimp.

Both bring a basket of rolls with creamy butter in a heart-shaped dish, a glass of champagne or a mimosa made with fresh-squeezed orange juice, coffee or tea, and dessert.

To begin, we opted for the corn chowder with salmon (it was a little cool for our taste) and a crab quiche. For the main course we tried the French toast and caramelized banana pancakes. We were too stuffed for the citrus cheesecake at dessert - it looked grand - and went with the fruit and sorbet.

Service was leisurely, not slow. We had ordered one from each menu and our bill, with tip, totaled $49.75.

We had finished eating - and all the area has to offer was only steps away - but were reluctant to leave. It's a wonderful perspective on the world.

ZANZIBAR BLUE

We like jazz, we like brunch. So we headed - where else? - to Zanzibar Blue (301-305 S. 11th St., 215-829-0300).

When we got there we found there were a lot of others like us. The Center City restaurant and jazz spot was packed, and we had a short wait for our noon reservation. But it was well worth waiting for. Zanzibar Blue pleases just about every sense - great food for taste and smell, sensational jazz for hearing, a sophisticated atmosphere for sight and, if you're with someone you're fond of, holding hands is just the right touch.

Brunch is a la carte. We began with an orange juice ($1.25) and a glass of champagne ($4.50). For an appetizer we tried the baked brie with a walnut fruit compote ($7) and Monterey Jack and jalapeno ravioli ($7). For our main course we opted for the West Indies-influenced Pollo Pan-do ($10), a chicken breast flambeed with coconut rum and seasoned with curry and cayenne pepper, and the creole duck and andouille sausage jambalaya ($10).

We were too stuffed for dessert and ended our meal with the house coffee, which has just a hint of cinnamon. The total with tip came to $51.43.

Just as big an attraction as the fine food, of course, is the jazz. And on the Sunday we were there, we were treated to the Paula Breslin Trio, which was backing Zan Gardner, a singer we want to hear again - with or without brunch.

THE CHART HOUSE

We had relatives in from out of town and wanted to show off Philadelphia's waterfront. We decided to go to the veteran of the increasing number of riverfront eateries, the Chart House (555 S. Delaware Ave., 215-625-8383.)

We called first for a reservation, and a good thing. Don't try brunch - or, we're told, most other meals - without one. But if you must wait, it's worth it.

Eating at the Chart House is some of the most fun we've had in a Philadelphia restaurant. From the moment the valet took our car (free of charge) to the time the check arrived at the table, service was more than efficient - it was friendly, enthusiastic and made us want to come back soon.

So did the view. Most tables overlook the Delaware and the new aquarium in Camden, framed by the Ben Franklin and Walt Whitman bridges. And the fleet of water taxis, ferries, pleasure boats, tugboats and freighters cruising by only makes the meal more memorable.

On to the food - the food and the even more food that the Chart House offers for brunch. The prix fixe brunch is $16.95 and includes unlimited trips to the salad bar - a misnomer, given the many choices - an entree, unlimited juice, unlimited champagne and coffee. There are other appetizers, specials and desserts on the menu, too.

The salad bar includes fresh Caesar salad, garden salad makings, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and lots of other fresh fruit, yogurt, cole slaw, cottage cheese and lox and bagels. (You can eat just from the salad bar for $9.95.)

We came back from the salad bar to find our napkins neatly folded on the arms of our chairs and a basket of warm, fresh muffins on the table.

Our entrees were Eggs Maryland, a variation on Eggs Benedict substituting crabcakes for ham; French toast - it looks like you get a whole loaf - with bananas and Canadian bacon; baked stuffed shrimp, and a three-egg omelet bulging with crabmeat and cheese.

Our waiter made sure our juice and champagne glasses were never empty, and when a half-cup of coffee cooled, he didn't just warm it up but brought a fresh cup. The service and food came down to little details like that - and every little detail was just perfect.

Our bill for four with tip totaled $86.56.

TEMPERANCE HOUSE

One of the nicest inns in one of the nicest towns is The Temperance House (5-11 S. State St., 215-860-0474) in Newtown. We had heard about the Dixieland jazz brunch and called for a reservation, asking to make sure the jazz would be playing on the September Sunday we wanted to go.

Well, they didn't tell us when we made an 11:30 reservation that the music didn't start until 1 o'clock. But we did get a nice table at a window overlooking the little borough's main street. Our dining room, decorated with colonial-era murals and a massive stone fireplace, varied greatly from the peach-tinted, more fancy adjacent dining room, and we liked where we were better.

The menu was a varied offering, too. And just as the rooms were both pleasant in their own way, each entree was different and each good.

The $16.95 prix fixe brunch begins with fresh fruit and a choice of juices. Next come bagels with smoked salmon, cream cheese, tomato and onion. The bagels were delicious but the serving of salmon is too small to fill two bagels. Main course offerings include jambalaya, catfish, eggs Benedict, pasta and a filet mignon with eggs.

We opted for a four-egg omelet stuffed with shrimp and the mixed-grill platter, which included a chicken breast, andouille sausage and lamb chop with fried potatoes. The omelet was a bit flavorless but the mixed-grill platter was mouth-watering.

Two cups of coffee and a tip brought our total for two to $43.31. If you want to hear the Dixieland combo with your meal, be sure to wait until after 1.

PALACE OF ASIA

Two surprises await you at the Palace of Asia (285 Commerce Dr., 215-646-2133). First, despite being tucked between a hoagie shop and a Ramada Inn near the Pennsylvania Turnpike in Fort Washington, the restaurant is an elegant eatery, with black-tied servers, faux marble and discreet lighting.

Second, the food: It simply is fantastic, touching taste buds you never knew your tongue had.

We asked a couple of friends, like us relatively new to Indian food, to join us, and we all became instant converts.

Unless you're familiar with Indian cuisine, chances are you won't recognize much on the brunch menu. But our waiter patiently and enthusiastically explained all the specials and the items on the brunch menu. Try a little - make that, a lot - of everything.

We started with four appetizers, onion uttapum ($2.25) and vegetable uttapum ($3.50), which were lentil pancakes; mysore mala dosa ($4.50), a huge tortilla-like pancake stuffed with vegetables and potatoes, and batata wada ($2.25), small flour balls stuffed with lentils.

We all had the nonvegetarian brunch platter ($7.95), which included chicken; lamb; meat samosas, small turnovers filled with minced lamb; rice; pappadum, a lentil flat bread; and gulab jamun, a small cheese ball dipped in syrup and served warm.

To wash it down we tried a lassi, a yogurt milkshake-like drink; Kingfisher beer, mango juice and a Bloody Mary. Our tab for four with tip totaled $75.56.

We intend to go back for dinner and to hang out at the art deco bar. It's just the sort of place where, if we stick around long enough, we're sure to see Humphrey Bogart hanging out.

CHADDS FORD INN

The leaves were ablaze and Helga was on the wall, so off we went to Chester County.

A perfect fall day seemed the right time to enjoy the season's color, take in the Wyeth collection at the Brandywine River Museum and try brunch at the Chadds Ford Inn (Routes 1 and 100, 215-388-7361) just up the road.

We were seated upstairs under a beamed ceiling next to walls covered with Wyeth prints (the inn's owners - friends of the Wyeth family - used to have originals up, but they are now at the nearby museum). Established in 1736, the inn is dark, but candles on each table give off a homey glow.

The menu is interesting, varied and moderately priced: chicken salad and fried oysters ($7.95), banana and walnut pancakes ($5.75), steak and eggs ($9.50).

We began with a glass of champagne ($3.75), a cup of mushroom soup and a grilled cinnamon bun. Next came an egg souffle with sausage ($6.50) and biscuits with fresh game sausage and gravy ($6.95).

The food was good, and we were glad for the Wyeth prints on the wall

because service was awfully slow and we used the long time between courses to study them.

With coffee, an additional glass of wine and tip, our bill totaled $38.22.

MEIJI-EN

Meiji-En (Pier 19 North, Delaware Avenue at Callowhill Street; 215-592-7100) is known as one of the city's best Japanese restaurants. The only Japanese offering at brunch, however, is sushi - very good sushi, but the only Japanese dish nonetheless.

Every other item on table after table of food is just as good but a more traditional Sunday brunch: omelets, salads, breads, french toast, pancakes, garlic chicken, and fresh carved beef, ham and turkey.

The $18.95-per-person buffet includes unlimited trips to the tables. Be sure to try the French toast - stuffed with cream cheese and walnuts - and the made-to-order pancakes with all sorts of fruits available to swirl in the batter.

Each trip also gives you a better view from the restaurant's lovely vantage on the Delaware River at the base of the Ben Franklin Bridge. The live jazz in the lounge (which softly drifts out to the dining room) is worth a trip to the restaurant all by itself.

Our bill for four, with valet parking and tip, was $86.83.

MANSION ON MAIN

There are times when you just need to be pampered. When you feel the need, go to the Mansion on Main Street in Voorhees (corner of Evesham and Kresson Roads in the Main Street complex, 609-751-6060).

From the complimentary valet parking to the friendly greeting at the door to the cheerful server who checked our needs constantly without being obtrusive, we felt like royalty. Not stuffy royalty, more like a weekend at the royal country house, elegant but with lots of kids and pleasant music from a string duo and pretty things to look at.

And food. Lots and lots of good food. A buffet table, encircling an ice- sculpted swordfish, nearly groaned under the bagels and salads and country ham and chafing dishes filled with fish and bacon and sausages and vegetables and eggs.

It was so full that a whole other table was devoted to omelets ready to be stuffed with piles of red peppers, mushrooms, cheeses and sausages.

If that wasn't enough, in the adjoining dining room was still another table crammed with sweets and confections for a dessert you must save room for.

The buffet is $18.95 per person and with a Bloody Mary and two mimosas and tip, our bill totaled $60.10.

TAQUET

You can fall in love at Taquet, the restaurant at the Wayne Hotel 139 E. Lancaster Ave., 687-5005). Here's how you do it: Go for brunch on a sunny day and seat the target of your affection in front of the sweeping stretch of bay

windows. The face of your soon-to-be-adored one will be framed with lovely orchids that adorn each table. The sunlight will cast sparkles through the

windows. You'll hold hands. And if you don't fall in love, you're incurably unromantic.

Oh yes, the food and the service will help, because they're superb.

Brunch is ordered from a menu, with an appetizer and dessert included in the price. Among the appetizers are garden salads, Caesar salads, country pates and French onion soup. Entrees range from an omelet ($15) to lamb chops ($27.50). Desserts include Black Forest cake and tiramisu (lady fingers covered with mascarpone cream flavored with espresso).

We began with a creamy black bean soup with garlic and tried the monkfish with shiitake mushrooms ($21.50) and the ribeye steak with shallots in a cabernet sauce ($25). For dessert we had the Bolero, a banana and walnut macaroon with chocolate mousse, and the Opera, thin layers of chocolate and almond mingled with Italian coffee.

With three glasses of champagne ($5.75 each) and tip - service was perfect - our bill totaled $78.54. That's not inexpensive for brunch for two, we know, but how often do you get to fall in love?

THE FOUNTAIN

Wow. It just doesn't get any better than brunch at the Fountain in the Four Seasons Hotel (1 Logan Square, 215-963-1500). Like many of the city's finer, pricier restaurants, it's a terrific place for special occasions - our occasion happened to be our sixth wedding anniversary.

We expected elegant surroundings, and they were: deep wood, beveled mirrors, brocade chairs and a view of Logan Circle. We expected delicious food, and it was: caviar, fresh fruits, salads, cheeses and rich desserts. We expected stellar service, and it was, too: Dirty plates were whisked away while we went off to fill new ones at the buffet, napkins were nicely folded and awaiting us when we returned to the table, and fresh silver was set and waiting when we returned from the dessert selection, all without us saying a word.

What surprised us was that given the surroundings and the offerings, brunch is reasonably priced. Not inexpensive, mind you, but fair.

Brunch at the Fountain begins with the buffet table that includes bagels, smoked salmon, angel-hair pasta with sundried tomatoes, eggplant meatballs with basil, a country pate and so much more that you'll need a couple of trips to the table to try it all.

Next comes a main course, ordered from the menu, that includes an omelet with shrimp in lobster sauce, crabcakes with rigatoni pasta and a zucchini- and-eggplant tart. We tried the Belgian waffle with fresh fruit ($22) and the pancake platter, which included scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon and corned beef hash ($23).

Finally, there is the dessert table, which includes creme brulee, carrot cake, Linzer torte, marble cheesecake and fresh fruit with cream.

The buffet table and coffee or tea is included in the price of the entree. A $9 glass of champagne brought the total for two with tip to $65.15. Since our visit, prices have gone up.

VIENNESE CAFE

Sifting through the rows of strip shopping malls along Route 70 is a little like prospecting: There can be gold nestled among those bricks and mortar, like the Viennese Cafe (1442 E. Route 70, 609-795-0172), tucked in among the record stores and video shops in Cherry Hill.

A sophisticated-looking eatery with track lighting illuminating French pastel prints on the walls and plants hanging from the ceiling, the cafe has a

menu to match. The restaurant doesn't seem to fit its location along the macadam - which was just fine with us. And to add to its virtues, service was prompt and the price was right, with a brunch for two available for about $20.

The cafe's brunch menu offers a choice of juice, fruit salad or cereal, pastries, coffee and dessert for $7.95. Those choices are repeated in the entree offerings, which include French toast with strawberries and whipped cream ($9.95), a creole shrimp omelet ($11.95) and two eggs with a 12-ounce New York sirloin steak ($16.95).

We began with orange juice, the fresh fruit and granola - which was especially good - and the pastry tray. Our main courses were a Belgian waffle with walnuts, homemade syrup and sausage ($11.95) and a platter of Nova Scotia lox and bagels served with caviar ($13.95).

You can add to the bill by trying a drink special - mimosas, screwdrivers and Bloody Marys are available. We had a couple of bellinis ($3) and a kir ($2), and our tab with tip totaled $41.95.

FRENCHTOWN INN

When brunch needs to be a destination, a reward at the end of country drive, there is the Frenchtown Inn (7 Bridge St., 609-996-3300). And what a reward: Even if you don't enjoy the drive, the trip is worth it just to eat at this gem.

But first consider the ride, up Pennsylvania Route 32 along the Delaware. The road is one of the most scenic in the area. Stately homes, lovely trees, the rushing river - this drive is pretty anytime of the year.

It starts getting especially beautiful as you pass north out of New Hope. About a half-hour further up, cross the bridge into Frenchtown. The inn is on the left, just as you get off on the Jersey side.

Last Sunday, the inn began its winter brunch menu. The prix fixe of $15.95 begins with a choice of juice, a basket of warm pastries (don't miss the pecan muffins) and fresh fruit. Then comes a choice of entrees that include poached eggs with chili and cheddar cheese, baked eggs with shredded confit duck, Gulf shrimp-stuffed omelet, sauteed salmon and cheese tortellini.

Also included is a choice of dessert, of which our server thankfully told us: "Feel free to take it home with you if you're full. People do it all the time."

This was simply some of the most wonderful brunch food we've had. We tried the cornmeal-crusted chicken with a fresh herb buttermilk sauce. It was - this is not an exaggeration - the best chicken we've ever had. We also tried an omelet with Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese and red onion. And we loved it.

Our server was helpful and able to accurately and enthusiastically describe each entree.

With three mimosas ($5 each) and tip, our bill came to $57.71. But you can get by much more cheaply without the drinks.

We're already making dinner plans for this spot.

FINDING BRUNCH, PLAIN OR FANCY

PHILADELPHIA

THE CHART HOUSE 555 S. Delaware Ave., Penn's Landing; 215-625-8383. Brunch served 10:30-2. Prix fixe $16.95. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

THE FOUNTAIN Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Square, Center City; 215-963-1500. Brunch served 11-2:15. Entrees $29-$36. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations required.

JAMEY'S 4417 Main St., Manayunk; 215-483-5354. Brunch served 11-2:30. Prix fixe $12.95. Nonsmoking section. Reservations recommended.

MEIJI-EN Pier 19 North, Delaware Avenue at Callowhill Street, Penn's Landing; 215-592-7100. Brunch served 10:30-2:30. Prix fixe $18.95. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations required.

ROLLER'S 8705 Germantown Ave., Chestnut Hill; 215-242-1771. Brunch served 11-2:30. September through June only. Entrees $5.75-$7.75. No smoking. No credit cards (personal checks accepted). Reservations accepted for parties of five or more.

SFUZZI 1650 Market St., Center City; 215-851-8888. Brunch served 10:30-4. Prix fixe $14.50. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

TREETOPS Rittenhouse Hotel, Rittenhouse Square, Center City; 215-546-9000. Brunch served 11-3:30. Prix fixe $17.95 or $22.95. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

ZANZIBAR BLUE 301-305 S. 11th St., Center City; 215-829-0300. Brunch served 11:30-2:30. Entrees $6-11. No nonsmoking section. Reservations required.

PENNSYLVANIA SUBURBS

CHADDS FORD INN Routes 1 and 100, Chadds Ford; 215-388-7361. Brunch served 11-2. Entrees $5.95-$12.95. Nonsmoking section. Reservations recommended.

PALACE OF ASIA 285 Commerce Dr., off the Pennsylvania Turnpike, Fort Washington; 215-646-2133. Brunch served 11:30-3:30 Saturdays and Sundays. Entrees $2.25-7.95. No nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

SPRING MILL CAFE 164 Barren Hill Road, Whitemarsh; 215-828-2550. Brunch served 9-4. Entrees $7.50-$11.50. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. No liquor license. No credit cards (personal checks accepted). Reservations recommended.

TAQUET Wayne Hotel, 139 E. Lancaster Ave., Wayne; 215-687-5005. Brunch served 11:30-2:30. Entrees $15-27.50. Nonsmoking section. Reservations recommended.

THE TEMPERANCE HOUSE 5-11 S. State St., Newtown; 215-860-0474. Brunch served 11-3 (Dixieland jazz 1-5). Prix fixe $16.95. Nonsmoking section. Reservations recommended.

NEW JERSEY SUBURBS

BRADDOCK'S TAVERN 39 S. Main St., Medford; 609-654-1604. Brunch served 11-3. Prix fixe $13.95. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

THE FRENCHTOWN INN 7 Bridge St., Frenchtown; 908-996-3300. Brunch served 12-3. Prix fixe $15.95. No smoking (smoking area in lounge). Reservations recommended.

THE MANSION ON MAIN STREET Corner of Evesham and Kresson Roads in the Main Street complex, Voorhees; 609-751-6060. Brunch served 10:30-2. Prix fixe $18.95. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

THE VIENNESE CAFE 1442 E. Route 70, Cherry Hill; 609-795-0172. Brunch served 9-3 Saturday and Sunday. Entrees $7.95-$16.95. Nonsmoking section. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended.

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