Turning The Tables In Philly The Good, Bad And Embarrassing On The City's '93 Food Scene

December 31, 1993|by Maria Gallagher, Daily News Restaurant Critic

Rotisserie chicken and upscale pizza upstaged pasta on the Philadelphia restaurant scene in 1993, a year that also saw espresso destinations multiply and luxury bread bakeries make their mark.

Takeout rotisserie chicken was the revolution of the year, both here and around the country. Fast-food chains - most notably KFC - introduced it. Owner-owned restaurants, like La Rosticceria on South Street, built a business on it. The new farmer's markets at 30th Street Station and in Manayunk made a place for it.

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It was gratifying to see the man who developed the concept for KFC give credit where credit was due: He told The New York Times his inspiration was Gideon Dienner's stand at the Reading Terminal Market!

On the pizza front, three successful national chains - Milano's, Bertucci's and the Italian Oven - debuted locally with a focus on gourmet hearth-baked pizzas and family-friendly prices.

Espresso bars opened throughout Center City and found homes in several retail outlets: John Wanamaker in Center City, Ma Jolie in Manayunk, Nordstrom Factory Direct in Franklin Mills, Anthropologie in Wayne. Caffe Primo in Bustleton declared itself the city's first drive-through espresso stand. Even the Down Home Grill on Spring Garden Street opened with an espresso machine in place.

Fancy breads were in the spotlight with the openings of Metropolitan Bakery in Center City, Breadsmith in Chestnut Hill and Big Sky Bread Co. in Bryn

Mawr. Le Bus moved its baking operations to vast new quarters in Manayunk, and has plans to expand to Merion, Jenkintown and Wayne in the coming year.

Steak enjoyed renewed popularity with the openings of Kansas City Prime in Manayunk, Jaws at the Holiday Inn Philadelphia Stadium and Outback Steakhouses in Cherry Hill, Jenkintown, Springfield and Chadds Ford. Steaks were appended to menus at Mel's International in Belmont Hills and the Catfish Cafe in East Falls. Next year, branches of the Santa Fe Steakhouse chain will open in Northeast Philadelphia and Jenkintown.

The budget steakhouse Montana on Front Street closed, not because carnivore interest flagged, but because the parent company had financial problems.

Not everyone loves steak: Michael Jackson, during a surprise visit to Ruth's Chris in Center City, downed only veggies and apple juice.

The Bellevue gained a food court, reopened its buffet-style Conservatory, replaced The Broadway deli with Mick's Downstairs, and became the new home of Ciboulette, a noteworthy French restaurant.

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