And it had an important impact at Rosh Hashanah.
The old ghetto, presided over by a beautiful Sephardic-style synagogue, is now looked upon as just another of Rome's neighborhoods. But Delbello maintains that this is the birthplace of a unique cuisine, a combination of the Jewish cook's talents and the pure peasant foods of Rome.
"Actually, food was the major focus in our household, even after we moved to New York," Delbello says. "Everything important took place over a meal. I'm one of a family of eight - six boys and two girls - so my mother had to cook plenty. But she always had enough for at least 20. And no one ever left our house hungry or thirsty."
That same warmth and generosity is carried over in the Delbello family gathering at Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, which this year begins at sundown Sunday.
Observed by Jews all over the world, the two-day holiday celebrates multiple themes. According to tradition, it marks the anniversary of the creation of the universe, but it is also a time for sober reflection on the past year and for prayers for peace and a bright future.
The High Holy Days end with Yom Kippur, Oct. 4, a day of fasting and repentance.
The festive Rosh Hashanah meal is steeped in tradition. Foods such as sliced apples or challah (egg bread) are dipped in honey to symbolize a sweet and prosperous year. And the Rosh Hashanah challah is always round - instead of the familiar braided Sabbath challah - to symbolize the continuity of life. Sour and bitter foods are avoided.
The Jews of Rome bought the best, freshest local foods and wines from the fertile countryside, then created appetizing combinations that stayed within the kashruth - the Jewish dietary laws. Delbello points out that Roman-Jewish cuisine is more than 2,000 years old, and he insists that "Italians have based their cooking on what they learned from the Jewish community. Our cuisine is so special, so good, it's not just surviving, it's prospering."
