He comes by his passion for Southern cooking honestly though - his Tennessee-born mother cooked up a storm to feed her family of 10. Brown graduated from The Restaurant School, where he added Italian and French cuisine to his repertoire. The cafe, situated so close to a used car lot you expect them to sell your car while you're having dinner, is a small, mirrored space, seating 60 diners. The restaurant's simple interior, with its mauve color scheme and lattice-accents, would benefit greatly from dimmer lighting - wall sconces cast harsh megawatts on every table. Our waitress couldn't have been more accommodating - she didn't even mind when we unscrewed a few light bulbs, softening the mood - and taking years off our age in the process.
Ambiance was the last thing on our mind once the food began to arrive. A complimentary relish of tangy roasted peppers and shaved provolone was served with crusty, warm rolls. We ordered the evening's special appetizer, Andoullie-stuffed Ravioli in a Creole Sauce ($7.50) and the Fried Oysters ($7.50). As we'd soon discover, every portion at Melange is hearty enough to make Paul Prudhomme blush. Four large ravioli, stuffed with smoky andouille, were topped with a tangy sauce of chunky tomatoes and herbs. The deep-fried oysters were unlike any I've ever had, breaded so lightly and fried so quickly that not a hint of oil lingered. The four oysters were accented with a zesty horseradish cream sauce and a tomato corn salsa that tasted like it just came out of somebody's garden.
