This Pearl's A Real Gem China, Vietnam Cuisine Co-exist In Haddonfield

July 09, 1997|by Beth D'Addono, For the Daily News

It's always a bonus to find a neighborhood Chinese restaurant that is a cut above the chow mein chuck wagons that too often pass for the real thing.

Despite its decor of red dragons and paper lanterns, Haddonfield's Oriental Pearl offers a fresh take on standard Chinese fare, with an extensive menu of traditional dishes spiced up with a few Vietnamese entrees.

Our recent dinner visit to the Oriental Pearl was on a summer night pleasant enough to find two tables of patrons dining al fresco in front of the restaurant's front door. We opted for a roomy booth inside, where we enjoyed delicious Chinese specialties, without a hint of MSG.

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We started our dinner with the dragon and Phoenix soup for two ($4.25), Vietnamese spring rolls ($2.75), and an order of pan-fried dumplings ($3.95). As we would find out soon enough, portions dished out by the kitchen were ample enough to feed an army.

Our soup, a light chicken broth teeming with shrimp, slices of white meat chicken, snow peas and mushrooms, was delicate in flavor and texture.

The dumplings were outstanding - six tender purses of dough were filled with ground pork spiked with garlic and a hint of ginger. The spring rolls were the only disappointment - the skins were tough and dripping with oil, and the filling was nondescript. Traditional soups, including wonton ($1.25) and hot and sour ($1.50), are also available.

We decided to try a Chinese and a Vietnamese entree for dinner. My friend ordered the oriental pearl lemon grass sauteed, ($10.95) and after asking our friendly server what the spiciest item on the menu was, I ordered the Hunan chicken and shrimp ($10.95).

My pal's dinner was delicious, a mammoth portion of sauteed chicken, steak and shrimp, redolent with the distinctive citrus flavor of the Asian herb that is ever present in Vietnamese cuisine.

My meal was perfectly five-alarm - bite-sized morsels of chicken breast and whole plump shrimps were sauteed with crisp broccoli, snow peas, bamboo shoots, carrots and water chestnuts in a zesty, fermented black bean sauce, served over the pearly brown rice I requested. Steamed and fried rice are also available.

Whether you are splurging on favorites like General Tso's chicken (8.95) or Mongolian beef ($9.50) or are staying on the light side with fresh vegetables ($6.50) served stir-fried or steamed, you'll find something to suit your taste.

The restaurant's menu promises that MSG and added oils are not used in stir frying, and the kitchen will accommodate requests for steaming or special dietary needs. Service was efficient. Our waitress was happy to open our bottle of wine, which is about the only thing that wasn't left over at the end of the meal.

Details Oriental Pearl, 215 Kings Highway East, Haddonfield, 609-427-6985.

Hours of operation: Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sunday, noon-9 p.m.

Price range: Appetizers, $1.95-$9. Entrees, $6.50-$17.95. BYOB

Nonsmoking section: Yes.

Accessible to disabled: Yes.

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