``People in the white community say, `Why did it have to happen here?' said the Rev. Samuel Billy Kyles, a Memphis preacher who was standing beside Dr. King on the balcony that evening. ``Not, `Why did it have to happen?' but, `Why did it have to happen here?' ''
``We have never faced up to what happened here,'' said Beverly Robertson, who runs the National Civil Rights Museum, which now occupies the hotel. ``Dr. King traveled all over the world, and he got killed here. The white community was like, `See, troublemaker? See what happens?' ''
Others disagree. Said Stephen Tompkins, a former Memphis journalist who documented how Army intelligence units spied on Dr. King up to the moment of his death: ``I never got a sense that people felt guilty. Memphians understand the importance of history and how their city has played a role in history, not just in the King assassination but back to the Civil War.''
In fact, signs of Dr. King are hard to find in Memphis. The Civil Rights Museum is well south of downtown, off the tourist track, and directions to other King sites are hard to obtain, even from those who should know.
``That's a good question,'' said Chip Washington, a Pilgrimage to Memphis spokesman who was unsure what places Dr. King admirers could visit. ``There's a Martin Luther King Jr. park here. I assume there's a street here.''
There is. Today and tomorrow, the Martin Luther King Jr. Expressway will help carry an estimated 5,000 tourists and civil-rights veterans across the Bluff City for 30th-anniversary observances. Thousands are expected downtown this morning to re-create Dr. King's last march, followed by the ringing of church bells at 6:01 p.m., Central time, the hour of his assassination.