When I hear the term "wine bar," I think about the fern and chablis bars of the 1970s. Bringing the term up to date, a picture of the bar at Philadelphia's Ristorante Panorama, with its special dispensing system and hundreds of wines available by the glass, flashes in my head.
Enoteca is neither of those.
Enoteca American Bistro, at 2 Kresson Road in Cherry Hill, does have a Cruvinet single bottle pouring system. And wine is served. But the emphasis on this wine bar is on the bar.
As I walked in, I asked for the restaurant, and the bartender said, "You're looking at it."
Attached to a liquor store next door, Enoteca is dominated by a large, horseshoe-shaped bar, complete with cigarette and cigar smoking and a television tuned to sports - not that there's anything wrong with that. Just be aware that you can't expect a non-smoking, intimate dining experience here.
Vinyl booths and Formica tables are scattered around the bar's parameter. My friend and I were pressed for time and our accommodating (and well-tanned) server, Gigi, adapted happily to our pre-theater schedule. After sampling a glass of Fetzer fume blanc ($5) and a Geyser Peak chardonnay ($3.50), we started with buffalo shrimp ($6.95).
A small casserole was quickly delivered. Inside, six medium-sized butterflied fried shrimp soaked up a peppery red sauce. A small container of blue cheese dressing was on the side, to douse the heat, if need be.
Other starter choices included clams casino ($5.25), mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat ($6.25) and fried mozzarella ($3.95). Although the chef's snapper soup was described as phenomenal ($1.75 for a cup), we didn't have time to slurp. Our main courses delivered hefty portions of hearty cuisine, along with a salad and vegetable and potato du jour. My fried deviled crabcakes ($11.95) were mammoth and tasty, two cakes of lightly spiced crabmeat mixed with a bread filling. Freshly steamed carrots and red bliss potatoes adorned the colorful plate.
My friend's chicken Rosa ($9.95) was a large portion of creamy tomato sauce served over al dente spaghetti, with six large chicken tenders. The chicken was perfectly cooked - sometimes I think that if I have to eat another piece of dry chicken breast I'll choke.
The entrees have a slight Italian accent, including shrimp scampi over pasta ($12.95), veal marinara over pasta ($12.95) and veal Romana ($12.95) sauteed with herbs and topped with melted provolone. Steak lovers can cozy up to a New York strip, with onion rings, a real deal at $12.95.
On the lighter side, the menu offers Caesar salad ($4.75), also available with grilled chilen ($6) and shrimp ($7.25).
The kitchen stays open until midnight every night but Sunday. Lunch is also great value - $4.95 specials are served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and change daily.
Enoteca, Two Kresson Road, Cherry Hill, 609-429-7038.
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight, Monday-Saturday.
Price range: Appetizers, $3.95- $6.95; entrees, $9.95-$14.95.
Credit cards: All major.
Nonsmoking section: No.
Facilities for the disabled: No.
