There is a hint of perky seduction in her voice that tames the hungry hordes around her. She calls herself "The Ringleader" and has the political pluck of a Middle East peace negotiator. And so they will wait - happily - until she leads them through the austere and noisy little dining room to a narrow table made of planks, or the concrete counter that looks like a sidewalk, or to one of the outdoor cafe seats that tilt on the sloping Spruce Street sidewalk.
The menu here is appealing in its simplicity, with flavors borrowed from Italy to Israel adding a pomegranate spark or giant couscous kick to grilled fish, seafood or chicken. Salads are light and creative. Entrees are almost always under $20. And desserts have a homespun goodness that is impossible to resist, from the dollop of whipped cream down to the last crumb of Bubby's apple cake, made by Taichman's mom.
But Audrey Claire's success is as much about timing, niche and buzz as it is about food. If there was an untapped need in Center City for stylish-but-affordable neighborhood places, as well as sidewalk dining, Audrey Claire has filled it with gusto since 1996. That's when the Toronto-born Taichman (whose middle name is Claire) used a small-business loan to completely rehab a dingy five-and-dime into this unlikely hot spot.
The bare-bones 45-seat room, with an exposed kitchen at one end and inviting open windows on every side, played its minimal look to advantage. The passing street life, the tony Rittenhouse guests, the simple Mediterranean comfort food all took on an extra luster. A bucket of brilliant yellow flowers or a bowl of stacked lemons gave this reclaimed corner the look of an interactive still-life. And Audrey Claire was an instant success.
