Never mind that I never put salt on the table, or that our pepper always comes from a grinder, or that hors d'oeuvres have appeared infrequently under our roof. The shakers are pretty enough to put on the table empty, and the matching pieces can surely be pressed into non-hors d'oeuvre duty.
If I had truly deep pockets, I would spring for the squarish mother-of-pearl caviar plate ($50) at Amy's, which would flatter any cold canape or tuna tartare, or the round mother-of-pearl caviar plate embellished with a sterling silver fish ($100).
Equally seductive for its design and craftsmanship is a set of four Laguiole steak knives by Claude Dozorme of France ($99.99) at Kitchen Kapers. The sexy curve of their handles, available in black or synthetic mother-of-pearl, is most appealing to the eye.
Japanese tabletop settings are ultra-trendy this year, with square plates and fancy chopsticks appearing in all the major catalogs. Williams-Sonoma (1-800-541-2233), which recently added a store at Broad and Walnut Streets, carries a series called Hudson Square made from glazed earthenware that is safe to use in the oven, microwave or dishwasher. The small, medium or large plates, priced from $32 to $48, come in colors of cream, saffron, sage or fog, which is a misty gray.
They are most effective when paired in contrasting colors. A lovely complement to the plates are bamboo place mats in natural, black or brown (set of four, $28), or Thai silk table runners in cream-blue or yellow-green (catalog only, $48 for 16-by-70 inches; or $58 for 16-by-90 inches).
