The proud nonna (grandma) says this with great dramatic bitterness, as if pronouncing an act of treason. Then again, I've tasted Forte's ricotta gnocchi and. . . . How dare they ruin her recipe!
At the new Mezza Luna, which she opened at Eighth and Catharine with partners Canio Pascale and Pietro D'Abbraccio, her gnocchi finally bask in their proper gorgonzola glory. Served beneath the ivory cream sheen of a delicate cheese sauce, these free-form blobs are so light, so uplifting, I had to prevent my guest from laying his head down upon them to sleep.
What? And miss the rest of this meal?
There are cockles to be savored, baby vongole plucked like jewels from their tiny yawning shells and swished through a garlicky bath of wine and broth. There is homemade pasta to devour. Half-moon agnolottis plump with pesto. Wide ribbons of sheer pappardelle, swathed in the most intense mushroom cream with crunchy slivers of porcini, or gift-wrapped around the moistest rabbit I've ever eaten, with tomato sauce and piquant olives.
And there is homemade bread, whose flour-dusted crust and downy heart make the perfect sponge for Forte's sauces. Whether zesty tomato-based, stock-infused or touched with cream, they stand out for their lightness and fresh flavors, ringing more of her native central Italy than they do of South Philly's slow-steeped gravies.
Mezza Luna has also set itself apart in other ways. The airy room has a crisp, contemporary feel, its walls painted with vibrant fields of blue and yellow, the stereo playing Italian pop tunes. The small, personable staff is refreshingly professional and attentive, whether expertly filleting whole fish or reciting a list of specials that, even in its shortened version, could be daunting.
