A Way With Curds By Virtue Of The Breadth And Depth Of His Artisan Cheese Finds, Ramon Charves Has Helped Make Fresh Fields One Of The Area's Top Cheese Retailers.

January 26, 2000|By Marilynn Marter, INQUIRER FOOD WRITER

Ramon Charves is passionate about cheese.

So much so that he took a detour from his theater major, singing and songwriting to shape a food career.

"My first time in Europe did it for me," said Charves, 32. "That's when I found my niche. And since I couldn't stay and live in Europe then, I decided to surround myself with as much of the flavor of Europe as possible.

"Still, I have been known to break into song while behind the cheese counter," the head cheese honcho at Fresh Fields' 20th Street store quipped with a twinkle and boyish grin seemingly cloned from look-alike actor George Clooney.

Story continues below.

Charves joined Fresh Fields six years ago in his hometown of Providence, R.I. His initiative in studying cheeses and wines earned him a transfer to and increasing responsibility in that department.

Three years ago Charves was brought in to set up the cheese department in the new Philadelphia store, where his staff has grown to eight. He also helped set up cheese departments in the new sibling stores in Jenkintown and Marlton.

The breadth and depth of his artisan cheese finds secured the store's place among the area's top cheese retailers. Such recognition is important, as cheese is a growing business. Sales were up 3.7 percent nationally last year and an additional 5 percent increase is projected for 2000 - much of the growth attributed in part to more interest in natural cheeses.

The pending Super Bowl fast-food fest is the acknowledged peak of annual cheese sales, with viewers gorging on giant pizzas, nachos, and other cheese-slathered snacks. But the higher-quality cheeses appeal even to health-conscious diners, many of whom have weighed the subject of saturated fats and cholesterol and opted to enjoy small but satisfying amounts of this high-protein food.

Combined, the two approaches have pushed our per capita cheese consumption to 30 pounds a year.

While cheese can be a satisfying part of a balanced diet, moderation is key. A one-ounce snack serving of most sliceable cheeses adds 80 to 110 calories, 6 to 9 grams fat, and 20 to 30 milligrams cholesterol.

To the good, each ounce provides 5 to 10 grams of protein.

Charves estimates his expanded stock now at 375-plus different cheeses along with complementary lines (gourmet crackers, nonalcoholic organic wines, and such).

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