Afternoon tea is a British tradition, dating to the late 1700s when tea was a precious commodity associated with the aristocracy. Americans still make the class connection, and sometimes confuse British "afternoon tea" and "high tea."
High tea is a meal of meat and bread served at dinnertime, largely in Britain's middle- or working-class homes. Served between 3 and 5 p.m., afternoon tea, or "low tea," consists of a formal tea service, with bone china and finger foods.
Philadelphia offers four afternoon teas that provide a luxurious respite and Wilmington, one. Here they are, in my order of preference.
Swann Lounge, Four Seasons Hotel. Seated on a soft loveseat next to a window overlooking Logan Circle, sipping a nectarlike Silver Tip Jasmine tea while listening to a harpist, I gave top spot to the Swann, which does everything right at teatime.
Afternoon tea is in the distinct hand of executive chef Jean-Marie Lacroix, who not only directs the preparation of the tiny cut sandwiches, fruit tartlets, chocolate-raspberry cups and cream-filled lace cookies, but also lends his personal collection of bone china to the tea service, so no two table settings are the same.
The Swann offers 11 varieties of tea, plus three decaffeinated blends and two herbal infusions. The traditional tea ($16.75) offers a choice of tea (each person receives his own silverplated pot), finger sandwiches, scones served with Devonshire cream, lemon curd and jam, and a tiered selection of pastries and cookies. The social tea ($19) adds cream-filled gingersnaps and chocolate-covered strawberries, and the royal tea ($25) adds a glass of champagne or sherry to that.
The Swann Lounge, Four Seasons Hotel, One Logan Square. Tea is served 3 to 4:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday. $16 to $25. Phone: 215-963-1500.
