On Wine Enjoy These Brands With A Meal

Posted: September 20, 2000

I came across three eccentric, delicious red wines in the last few weeks, wines that had some quirky characteristic that made them stand out from the crowd of low- to-medium priced wines. What they had in common was that they each seemed to call out for meat from the grill, some slab of beef or chop of lamb to ground their high-flying flavors.

Now I have to admit a prejudice. I love my grill. I have nurtured its flavor and my technique for years. I would cook my kid's oatmeal on it if I could figure out how. I do make Thanksgiving's turkey on it. I have three different kinds of wood for smoking and a little homemade censer for smoking herbs. I make my own rubs and my favorite grill accessory is my overcoat. (My second favorite, if you must know, is an umbrella. It's that nuts.)

So it's not surprising that, to entertain my new friends, I fired up the grill. Here's the meal:

First everybody had a taste of each of the wines. Then a slab of London broil was poked with a knife about 20 times. Each slit had a sliver of garlic pushed into it. The surface of the meat was rubbed with a bit of oil and sprinkled with fresh cracked black pepper.

Some local green beans went in a foil bag. A little sesame oil was dribbled on the top, then a few strokes of grated ginger, a squeeze of lemon and a dash of soy sauce.

The grill was hot, the meat was thrown on and the heat reduced to medium-high. After about two minutes the loosely closed foil bag was thrown on a cooler part of the grill and the meat turned. If you'd been there, you would have seen the grill marks. You also would have had a glass of wine.

The meat was cooked - rare of course - about six minutes later. I gave everybody a stack of beans and then arranged a blanket of thin slices of beef on top. (Micro slicing is the secret of using flavorful but chewy cuts of beef, but that's another story. . .)

There were biscuits and mixed green salad, but the real story is the main plate and the wines. And now for the scores:

Terra d'Oro by Montevina '97 ($16). Berry fruit with a hot, spicy mouth feel. A whopping 15.5-percent alcohol but there's enough density of fruit and tannic bite to keep the whole thing in balance. I noticed the high alcohol in a quick tasting before the meat was grilled, but with the beef on the plate, the slight booziness faded into the background.

Vigil Zinfandel Mohr-Fry Ranch Lodi '98 ($18). There was a tangy quality, as if you were chewing on grape stems or seeds that accentuated the abundant fruit in this unusual wine. The finish was curious-sharp, lingering and refreshing. Most importantly, it was perfect with the food, the kind of wine that complements the cook.

Alamos Ridge Bonarda '99 ($8). If your grandfather made wine, this is the wine he was trying to make - earthy, spicy, rough and lovable. This wine made me happy. You'll have to call around to find it in South Jersey, but when you do, buy a case.

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