Rae

In the Cira Centre lobby, it evolves by the hour, by the day, in its look and its palette of New American flavors.

April 01, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 3 of 3)

The Middle Eastern-spiced rack of lamb was one notable exception, the tender meat sparkling beneath a crust of spicy harissa and chickpeas. But both the tenderloin topped with marrow ravioli and the rabbit medley (with a side crock of dense cassoulet) needed a lighter touch.

There was so much produce piled atop the otherwise tasty Rae burger (carrots? jicama?) that it was a challenge just to hold. There was too much cheese on the mini-Reubens, whose smoky, house-cured pastrami lacked peppery punch. Too much mustard cream cheese weighed down the excellent house-cured salmon. The tender, oil-poached salmon was overwhelmed with horseradish tang.

Story continues below.

An elegant balance was restored in pastry chef Elizabeth Brozoski's smart desserts, from the fluffy white-chocolate mousse topped with toasted hazelnuts, to the superb house-churned ice creams, a comforting apple-walnut pie, and a very memorable cheesecake. It was crowned with strawberries and - crunchy, sweet, surprising candied celery.

Hey, if Rae can turn celery into a convincing sweet finale, there's no limit to what this restaurant can become with a little more polish. I may even learn to really appreciate the Cira Centre when the sun goes down.


Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.

Read his recent work at http://go.philly.com/craiglaban.

 

« Prev | 1 | 2 | 3
|
|
|
|
|