Casino buffet or Buddakan?

May 18, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic

ATLANTIC CITY - Last year's tan had long faded away, and the waves were brisk with a pre-season chill. But finally, after the cool intervening months since last summer, the Pier Shops at Caesars is heating up.

On its third-floor restaurant concourse, you can sit back in a wooden chaise-longue, grab a cocktail, and actually put your toes in the sand of the faux-beach that lines the windowed hall. Watching the waves crack below the Pier onto the beach from the comfort of this seaside mall was about the closest I've gotten to imagining a year-round summer.

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But I doubt the actual summer will be quite the same now that this new mega-entertainment center is in gear for its first warm season, especially with its multimillion dollar lineup of new restaurants piling onto Atlantic City's growing stash of high-concept casino restaurants.

The third floor houses a range of impressively designed eateries. There's a family-style fish house chain from Baltimore, Phillip's Seafood; a branch of Boston's tony wine bar and New American bistro, Sonsie; and a kitschy but handsome faux-Dublin Irish pub called Trinity, where the hearty chicken pot pies are as big as platters and the burgers are indulgently deep-fried. That's right. Beer-battered to a sinful crunch with a curried dip.

The biggest Pier draws, though, will undoubtedly be the branches of two of Stephen Starr's Philly hits: Buddakan and The Continental.

The more casual Continental features one of the wildest restaurant designs I've seen, with a blue water moat wending around a retro fireplace hearth in the "outdoor" cafe, and funky back rooms set behind sliding glass doors and portholes that evoke the inside of a futuristic submarine.

The Buddakan space is only slightly more restrained, but beautifully rendered to evoke an Asian courtyard set beneath a starry-night painted "sky." It feels more intimate than the Chestnut Street original, but still draws heavily on its design signatures, with its own big glowing Buddha and a golden onyx community table. The menu also leans heavily on Philly's more familiar Asian fusion offerings, rather than the edgier, authentically inspired items from the Manhattan branch.

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