Craig LaBan's Favorite Burgers

May 24, 2007

Here are Craig LaBan's favorite burgers in the Philadelphia region, in no particular order:

Good Dog Bar and Restaurant
The Cheese-Stuffed Wonder

The burger that inspired the song "Cheeseburger, I Hold," Good Dog's signature sandwich triumphs where so many before have tried and failed - stuffing a burger with blue cheese. The meat itself is deliciously seasoned, perfectly cooked, and wisely topped only with a mop of sauteed onions. But bite into the heart, and behold. A river of molten bleu. A powerhouse of tangy savor. Too rich to be an everyday burger. But can you hear the music playing? Order it no more than medium-rare, or risk losing the cheese.

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$9, at 224 S. 15th St., 215-985-9600.

Barclay Prime
Sliders de Luxe

Kobe burgers are a dangerous thing - the meat is so rich that bigger patties typically become mush. That's why I find Barclay's precious 2 oz. sliders - petite, yet still plump - to be Kobe's finest form. Built on the house-baked brioche buns to be the ultimate artisan burger, these darlings offer a miniature symphony in every bite - crispy rich roll, tangy Gruyere, sweet onions, and a pad of profoundly buttery meat. Each pair is gone before you want them to be, but these sliders also linger hauntingly in my imagination long after the meal is over.

$16, at 237 S. 18th St., 215-732-7560.

Rouge
The Show-Off

Talented chef Matthew Zagorski really does know how to cook a $30 piece of fish. But Rouge will probably forever be known as the ritziest burger joint in America, cranking out as many as 150 at a busy lunch. The enormous 13-ounce patties, topped with Gruyere, hydroponic Boston bibb, and butter-toasted brioche buns, are tailor-made for turning heads at a cafe that's all about being seen. It turns out the two-inch high patties – ground sirloin, rib eye and filet tips seared to a perfect crust in cast-iron pans by cook Francisco Geronimo - are a drop-dead delicious spokesmodel for the thick burger school. Yes, it's $15, but there should be some left over for your hungry pug, too.

$15, at 205 S. 18th St., 215-732-6622.

Brown's Restaurant
The Beach Grill Dream

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