Craig LaBan's Favorite Burgers

They still call it the "new place" though this modest white Delco shack has been grilling up bitty burgers in Folsom for 20 years. A previous 50-year run at its first location in Springfield is responsible for Charlie's tall reputation. But the folks behind this "new" counter still know how to do it right - grinding the meat on location and carefully flattening those tiny scoops of loosely packed burger on a well-seasoned griddle, where the meat takes on an intensely savory, caramelized-edge crisp. Beware overly complicated combinations, as the toppings (yes, even mustard and ketchup) easily overwhelm the delicate meat. I covet the double cheeseburger with nothing but raw onions and a last-minute shake of peppery salt - plus a toasty white bun swabbed ever so slyly in the gorgeous shine of grease pooling on the grill. You'll need more than one.

$3.28, 336 Kedron Ave., Folsom, 610-461-4228.

Matyson
Burger Still Life

The burger at this innovative BYOB is so carefully hand-crafted - from the house-baked brioche bun to the carefully half-charred onion round, a slice of sharp Lancaster cheddar, slow-roasted tomatoes (to cheat the seasons) and the plume of soft bibb lettuce - that it looks like a work of art. The bun is a little too delicate, in fact, and the house-ground meat is a notch too fine for ultimate perfection. But the flavors, oh the flavors, were meant to be eaten, not watched.

$10, at 37 S. 19th St., 215-564-2925.

London Grill
The Aristocrat

This Fairmount institution was updating pub food long before anyone knew what a gastro-pub was, and the London's signature burger - posed an English muffin, but of course - remains one of the city's best. Made from a half-pound of good Lancaster organic beef, I like mine topped with retro herbed boursin cheese and caramelized onions. It's still the menu's most reliable bet.

$9.50, at 2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545.

Honey's Sit'n'Eat
The Tzaftig Melt

Hip Northern Liberties is one of our best burger 'hoods, from Standard Tap to N. 3rd. But Honey's gives the burger its unique Jewish deli twist by updating the patty melt. The 8 oz. black angus rounds are very good, and memorably juicy. But they're even better sandwiched with caramelized onions between two extra-thick slices of Hudson Bakery's seeded rye that have been griddled to a buttery deli crisp.

$9.50, at 800 N. 4th St., 215-925-1150.

Trinity Pub
The Batter Burger

It's not as if a good burger needs to be deep-fried. But Irish-born chef Martin Doyle insists this is an authentic late-night staple on Dublin's fish-and-chip row, so I'm eating it. I didn't want the bun. The crispy beer batter was all the bread a burger needs. A sassy curried dip on the side gives it the ultimate U.K. twist.

$10, at The Pier Shops at Caesars, 1 Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic City, 609-345-6900.

Honorable mentions

Grace Tavern, 2229 Gray's Ferry Ave., 215-893-9580

Royal Tavern, 937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694

Vintage, 129 S. 13th St., 215-922-3095

Tangier Restaurant, 1801 S. 18th St., 215-732-5006

Chaucer's Tabard Inn, 1946 Lombard St., 215-985-9663.