Miran

I knew it was working its magic when my Indiana-bred neighbor, Joe, suddenly sweaty and pale-faced, stepped away from the table to get a breath of fresh Chestnut Street air. Of course, everyone has a different tolerance.

But there's more to Miran than mere spice. Many people will no doubt come here for the Korean BBQ, a variety of meats that arrive marinated and raw, that you are expected to cook yourself on the table grill, then wrap in fresh lettuce leaves smeared with sweet and salty soybean paste.

The beef kalbi short ribs are the classic choice, and I loved the meat's light soy marinade of garlic, ginger and a variety of fruits (Asian pear, kiwi), which lets the natural flavors shine. The thickly cut kalbi, though, wasn't quite as tender as it could be. The more thinly sliced bulkogi, rib eye enhanced with lots of sweet onions, was a much more satisfying dish. The pork kalbi tossed in a spicier marinade tinged with sesame oil was another winner.

Miran wasn't perfect. Avoid the chewy octopus hot plate, for example, as well as those sweet-and-sour stir-fries. I was also underwhelmed by the modest assortment of panchan, the complimentary little dishes of pickled vegetables that usually precede a meal. The crunchy kimchi cabbage, blanched sprouts, cold sweet potatoes and spice-rubbed daikon radish were fine. But I've had more diverse, and more vibrant, panchan elsewhere. Then again, I'd have to drive to some of those. And sometimes, a bibimbapper's craving just can't wait.