Tre Scalini

The chef is now the resident nonna at this South Philly BYO, cooking the old family favorites with a new patience and care.

June 10, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 3 of 3)

The move to this location on East Passyunk, the former Trattoria Lucca, has given Tre Scalini a roomier double-wide space, but it still has the simply decorated, homey feel. The service is friendly and well-prepared, and reasonably attentive. And the prices, while not inexpensive ($19 to $24), are completely fair for the quality.

One thing I wish DiRenzo had improved upon, however, are the desserts, which are still the same, totally mundane selection of prefrozen Italian desserts that were served in the previous location. There's nothing wrong with a Bindi tiramisu, per se, but it seems so at odds with the handspun flavors of the rest of the meal.

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By the time the dessert hour had rolled around, Franca DiRenzo had already retired from the kitchen to the dining room. And it was clearly bedtime for our hostess, judging from the dreamy look that settled into Gisella's eyes as she snuggled up and rested at last on her nonna's knee. It was a sweet portrait to end the night, and just the beginning of Franca DiRenzo's next chapter.


Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews Brandywine Prime in Chadds Ford.

Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.

Read his recent work at http://go.philly.com/craiglaban.

 

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