GoodTaste

Posted: June 14, 2007

Passion for pastrami

We all get something from our ancestors. From my grandfather the bus driver, I get an appreciation for pastrami, the peppery cousin of corned beef. My grandmother and I would meet him with a sandwich at his noontime stop in Wynnefield.

If only he could have lived to see the wave of New Yorkers revamping and opening such delis as Kibitz, Famous 4th Street, and now Hershel's East Side Deli. Hershel's starts with a "navel" cut of beef; rubs on spices and seasonings - cracked black pepper, coriander seed and powdered garlic - and cooks it for 18 hours. Slicing it warm into 8-plus-ounce sandwiches, Hershel's sells 150 to 200 pounds a day, running out every afternoon.

- Michael Klein

Pastrami on rye, $7.95 at Hershel's East Side Deli at Reading Terminal (in food court area), 12th and Filbert Streets, 215-922-6220.

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