Brandywine Prime

June 17, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 3 of 3)

Such rough dining doesn't jibe with what you should expect at these prices. And it doesn't correspond to any of the satisfying meals I've eaten over the years at Deep Blue and Toscana.

Perhaps Butler's team is simply spread too thin. Only one manager in the building seemed to know a thing about the wine list - which offers a worthwhile selection of international bottles and good values, as well as a smart selection of craft beers, high-end whiskies and ports.

Story continues below.

The manager directed us to a relatively unknown California wine from Stolpman, a delicious claret-style cabernet that, at $39, was refreshingly less expensive than some of the others I'd been considering.

As we settled into our plush banquette and savored that bottle, I could easily imagine what a nice destination Brandywine Prime might be if the rest of the service had been so able and the other flavors so satisfying.

But this old inn is going to need a lot more work before its second chance pays off.


Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews Tinto near Rittenhouse Square.

Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.

Read his recent work at http://go.philly.com/craiglaban.

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