Good Taste

Posted: June 28, 2007

Cheese of the Month

True to form, Fiscalini's 18-month aged Bandage-Wrapped Cheddar has some of the sharpness we've come to expect from cheddars.

But it is the complexity and balance of subtle flavor notes that earned it the title of world's best "extra mature traditional cheddar" at the World Cheese Awards in London in March.

It is the first time the cheddar title and trophy have left Britain, which has a cheddar-making history going back more than 700 years.

This mellow cheddar isn't meant for melting over macaroni - though it would be good.

This is a star, a raw-milk, world-class artisan cheese, to be savored as part of a plated cheese course.

Seth Kalkstein, DiBruno's expert cheese buyer, describes it as sharp and tart "with an underlying sweet flavor that you don't find in other cheddars, with faint background notes of sauteed onion and garlic."

- Marilynn Marter

Fiscalini 18-month aged Bandage- Wrapped Cheddar, $24.99 a pound, at DiBruno Brothers, 1730 Chestnut (215-665-9220).

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