Survivor: Shore Dining

On the ever-shifting sands of the Jersey Shore culinary scene, there's solid cooking at some new summer palaces and nifty niches.

July 08, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 4 of 4)

Lisa Savage is another chef who can relate to the virtues of downsizing. She built a devoted clientele for her Savaradio in cozy Ventnor storefronts for 13 years before taking the leap last year to a gargantuan, high-end space on the mainland. It was shaped like a circus tent and seated 250. The expensive run-on menu rambled from pizza to sushi with inconsistent results, and the restaurant was closed within a year. (It's soon to become a Bookbinder's.)

But Savage has returned to her Ventnor roots at Sage, a 75-seater done up in earth-toned chic that replaced last year's Joe Pesce. Many of the signature items that anchored her Savaradio menus are here, from the addictive fried artichoke hearts to the spring roll-wrappered giant shrimp, and those succulent seared scallops over bacony corn with basil aioli. It still isn't cheap, with entrees drifting into the high $20s and above. But the menu is now more focused, and the Italo-centric cooking considerably more crisp.

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We loved the appetizer of thinly sliced, pan-fried eggplant that came rolled like a sturdy crepe around a center of oozing mozzarella beneath a saute of sweet marsala mushrooms. A thick steak of seared butterfish (escolar) came atop an Iberian stew of chorizo, clams and chickpeas, the lemony rich fish dabbed with a vibrant green almond-parsley pesto. The orecchiette were overcooked, but that didn't spoil the simple red sauce filled with broccoli rabe and springy crumbles of homemade Italian sausage.

That sausage bodes well for the Italian prepared-foods market Savage is working to open directly next door to Sage, where she'll sell homemade pastas, bread and imported cheese. (Avoid the doughy toasted gnocchi.) But hopefully, she'll also offer some of the restaurant's desserts, which were the highlight of our meal - a classic but decadent flourless chocolate torte, and a tall wedge of banana whipped-cream pie that was like eating a cool slice of summer.

"I'm thrilled to be back," Savage said of her return to Ventnor, where a dining room full of old regulars during our visit was already fawning over her with praise.

Sometimes, it would seem, it is better to be the humble but happy hermit crab than queen of an empty castle.


If You Go

The Inlet, 998 Bay Ave., Somers Point, 609-926-9611; www.inletrestaurantnj.com.

Dune, 9510 Ventnor Ave., Margate, 609-487-7450; www.dunerestaurant.com, BYOB.

Manna, 7309 Ventnor Ave., Ventnor, 609-822-7722. www.mannaventnor.com, BYOB.

Sage, 5206 Atlantic Ave., Ventnor, 609-823-2110, Cash only, BYOB.


Join Inquirer restaurant critic Craig LaBan for a live online chat Tuesdays at 4 p.m. at http://go.philly.com/phillytalk.


Next week: Shore Dining, Part 2. Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2593 or claban@phillynews.com.

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