Grims and his chef, Zach Grainda, have tweaked the concept to be more casual and versatile this season, with updated takes on Shore classics and simply grilled items. Our dinner, though, was a mixed bag.
The starters were fantastic, including a "buffalo wingless" that was more a twist on General Tso's chicken, to rich lobster bisque, a bountiful chopped salad, and a tasty shrimp ceviche over warm corn flan that tingled with chipotle peppers.
But Grainda wouldn't leave the chipotles alone - their smoky spice haunted too many other dishes, from the ketchup beside the overfried Barnegat scallops to the dense corn and crab cakes to the ranch salad dressing.
Service started off impressive, but quickly faded as the dining room got busy. A great soy-glazed pork tenderloin, and some fine desserts, a luscious peach cobbler and a snappy key lime tart, redeemed the meal.
Grims and his crew like to speak of their recent Shore expansion as spreading "our DNA." But even the strongest, most professional restaurant families need to be careful not to spread those family ties too thin.
If You Go
Brown's Restaurant, 110 Boardwalk, Ocean City, 609-391-0677. Cash only.
Daddy O, 4401 Long Beach Blvd., Brant Beach (LBI), 609-494-1300.
Dixie Picnic, 819 Eighth St., Ocean City, 609-399-1999.
Gia, 3001 Pacific Ave., Wildwood, 609-729-5959.
Gilchrist Offshore, 734 W. White Horse Pike, Cologne (Galloway Twp.), 609-965-3433. Breakfast and lunch only. Cash only.
Phillips Seafood, One Atlantic Ocean, The Pier at Caesars, Atlantic City, 609-348-2273.
Sonsie, One Atlantic Ocean, The Pier at Caesars, Atlantic City, 609-345-6300.
Next week: Craig LaBan reviews Legal Sea Foods in the King of Prussia Mall. Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2593 or claban@phillynews.com.
