Savor the cool cuisine when summer simmers

As the mercury rises, these recipes will keep you away from the oven.

July 19, 2007|By Marilynn Marter, Inquirer Food Writer

When temperatures climb above 90 degrees, the last thing we want to think about is hot food.

And the very last thing we want to do is cook.

But there are plenty of options for cold summer suppers, as almost any food can be served cold. It's just that few home cooks are practiced in the art.

Take your cues from some of our local restaurant chefs who understand their customers' desire for more cold food options in summer.

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At Loie on South 19th Street, just two weeks into his tenure, executive chef Brenton Wallace is drawing on his repertoire of cold blender soups, including a watermelon gazpacho- a watermelon, honeydew and cucumber puree accented with a little jalapeno heat and a crab salad garnish. (And watermelon gazpacho seems to be an especially popular starter this season.)

Don't be afraid to experiment. Another unexpected but winning flavor combination is the pairing of watermelon and feta cheese in salad, now on the menu at Brasserie Perrier and other fine restaurants around town.

A more traditional tomato-based vegetable gazpacho blend, pureed with a touch of vinegar, becomes a salad dressing at the hands of Cuba Libre's consulting chef Guillermo Pernot. (It can double as a cocktail mixer, says Pernot.)

Cold soba (buckwheat) noodles are a staple on Japanese menus, but Morimoto has taken the dish up a notch with the addition of edamame (soy beans), bacon and scallops for a Far Eastern take on carbonara served at room temperature (recipe below).

Of course, producing cold food presentations and dishes requiring little or no cooking at home can present certain challenges.

For starters, ingredients must be the best and freshest possible. And it is especially important for perishables such as beef or fish served raw, as is the tuna carpaccio on Morimoto's tuna pizza (recipe below).

Keep in mind that flavors tend to be stronger in hot foods, mellowing as they cool. Thus, if a food will be served cold, you may want to add extra flavor up front.

This is especially true of meats, for which a seasoning rub or glaze, a salt or horseradish crust can make cold slices more appealing. (Note: Keep beef tender and juicy for cold slicing by roasting it rare.)

Try to make use of the many foods that require no cooking, such as the great assortment of fresh fruits and vegetables. Also, try other precooked shortcut ingredients, such as canned beans.

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