Legal Sea Foods

July 22, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 3 of 3)

Stick with the classics. The fish and chips brought flaky haddock inside a perfect greaseless crust. The Romano cheese-breaded soft-shell crabs were meaty and sweet. The stuffed shrimp were leaden, but the little filet was an excellent "turf" to the shrimp's bready "surf."

Legal also served a satisfying but ridiculously expensive steamed lobster - even if $55 for the 21/2-pounder is an accurate reflection of this year's volatile lobster prices. I'd prefer the more economical lobster roll at lunch.

There are straightforward-but-decent renditions of cheesecake, Key lime pie, Boston cream pie, and chocolate-coated ice cream bonbons for dessert.

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But the end of the meal takes an unexpectedly high-tech turn when the waiter brings a swipe-your-own-credit-card terminal to the table. It's just the kind of wireless gizmo that chains seem to covet these days - though in this case, Legal is pioneering credit-card safety.

Having been on the phone that very morning with the fraud department of my own credit-card company, I take a swipe, lick the savor of fried clams from my lips, and smile.


Next week: Craig LaBan reviews Tiffin in Northern Liberties.

Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2593 or claban@phillynews.com.

 

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