The concept isn't that far off from the dozens of BYO bistros that have sprung to life in gentrifying neighborhoods across the region: Husband-and-wife veterans of the restaurant scene decide to open a cozy little place closer to home, and name it after their kids, of course. "Ryan" plus "Leila" plus 38 seats and a dream equals "Rylei."
But for Jennifer Brennan-Vargas and her husband, Jose Vargas, who met during their front-of-the-house years at the Palm, this project on their home turf of Mayfair provided extra challenges. There is the obvious question of whether this value-driven neighborhood would pay for cooking with quality ingredients - and they've addressed that fairly with entrees that hover between $18 and $20 and a bargain three-course weekday menu for $30.
A bigger question, though, was who would cook? The unlikely answer is Jose, 26, a longtime waiter whose culinary education consists of studying cookbooks from the Inn at Little Washington and the French Laundry, Wikipedia queries into the elements of molecular gastronomy, and three years of trial and error at home. His volunteer sous-chef is his father-in-law, Terry Brennan, a retired state social worker who has never cooked, who wishes to be paid for his labor in beer (Victory Hop Devil preferred).
It sounds like a tall challenge, and it is, judging from the sparse crowds I've seen early on in Rylei's simply done, dark red dining room. But Brennan-Vargas and her young assistants (neighbors, son and friends) welcome everyone with an earnest charm, gilding the table with some impressively fine crystal stemware for a BYOB.
But it's Vargas' cooking that should win Rylei a second look. It is impressive from someone so inexperienced - with a natural feel for placing good ingredients in smart combinations that also show some polished technique.
