Modo Mio

The "secondo" entrees were modestly portioned but packed with good flavors. Pork loin was turned into a light rendition of saltimbocca, the tender meat flavored with sage, prosciutto and provolone. A meltingly soft veal cheek rose on the piquance of capers and black olives. A "scaloppine"-thin slice of duck breast luxuriated in a tangy red-wine gravy fruited with cherries.

A thick fillet of crispy red snapper was graced with a lively "acqua pazza" tomato broth that brought a blend of sweet peppers and chile- flake spice. The usual tuna steak found intrigue in a great combination of roasted beets and mushrooms.

Like the rest of the meal, desserts are simple, but satisfyingly homespun, from a panna cotta as light as whipped cream to the decadent chocolate budino pudding. My favorite, though, was a refreshing glass of berries and ladyfingers blanketed in a frothy zabaglione tarted up with purple pomegranate juice.

Wash it down with a brimming shot glass of complimentary sambuca, the sweet anise liqueur edgy with citrus peels and herbs, and the meal at Modo Mio ends with a warmth that lingers.

In the "Or Try These" section of the Aug. 19 Dining Review, the name of Restaurant Alba was given incorrectly as Ristorante Alba.