Likewise, a special gazpacho was so haphazardly cooked, it was like eating a bowl of soupy salsa - though I appreciated the generous fistful of crabmeat mounded in the center. The honeyed chicken wings were another good dish that faltered on hasty technique; the plump wing meat had a chewy, undercooked spring that would have benefited from more gentle cooking. The big pork chop was impressively thick, but a little dry, despite its tasty pineapple salsa.
Desserts attempt the same updated comfort shtick, with equally mixed results. The chocolate layer cake is decent, but the thin icing lacks intensity. The toasted pound cake is too dry to come without sauce. This kitchen even muffed a seemingly unbotchable banana split, gracing our scoops of ice cream with little more than a dried-out brown banana, a few crushed nuts, and one lonely squeeze-bottle streak of chocolate.