Shop carefully for seafood that's been harvested in a responsible manner, then make the most of it by giving it star billing in boldly flavored dishes such as these from Paul Johnson's "Fish Forever" (Wiley, 2007, $34.95).
GRILLED LEMONGRASS SHRIMP AND RICE NOODLE SALAD
For the marinade:
3 to 4 stalks lemongrass, white part only, peeled
2 garlic cloves, chopped
8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, minced
2 tablespoons
mild-flavored oil
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
For the nuoc cham dipping sauce:
2 garlic cloves
1 or 2 Thai bird, Fresno or other red chilies, seeded and minced
Juice of 2 limes (shells
reserved)
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup water
For the shrimp:
1 1/2 pounds medium to large shrimp, with shells (most American shrimp are
considered sustainable)
8 ounces dried thin rice-flour noodles (vermicelli)
Leaves from 2 small heads
tender lettuce, chopped
2 cups fresh bean sprouts
1 cup julienned or shredded carrot
1 Japanese or European
cucumber, thinly sliced
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts
To make the marinade, use a mortar and pestle to crush the lemongrass. Add the garlic and pound to a paste, then add the basil and pound to bruise. Whisk in the oil, fish sauce and sugar until well combined. Set aside.
To make the nuoc cham sauce, use a mortar and pestle to mash the garlic and chili to a paste. Add the lime juice, then scrape the pulp from the lime shells with the tip of a knife and add. Stir in the sugar, fish sauce and water, mixing until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.
With a pair of scissors, cut the shrimp up the back so that they can be easily removed from the shell after cooking. (You may shell the shrimp instead if you wish, but cooking them in the shell improves the taste.)
If desired, remove the veins from the shrimp. Toss the shrimp in the marinade, massaging some of the marinade into the shell. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
After 30 minutes, prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to 375 degrees. Soak 6 wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.
Soak the rice vermicelli in cold water for 20 minutes, or until pliable. Blanch the vermicelli for 30 seconds in boiling water, then drain and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well and set aside.
Arrange the chopped lettuce on four serving plates, topping it with the rice vermicelli, bean sprouts, carrot and cucumber.
