When looking for fresh foods, it pays to go Dutch

November 08, 2007

The Cottman Amish haven't left the same mark on Philadelphia as, say, the Arch Street Friends.

But if they haven't forged a 350-year legacy of justice for all and freedom of individual conscience, at least they've brought farm-fresh whole foods like wax beans and poultry to a Krimpets and Sizzli neighborhood - not to mention sticky buns, German potato salad, homemade noodles, apple butter and shoo-fly pie.

Cottman's plain folk are from Lancaster County - not Lawncrest. They commute in on Wednesday through Saturday to staff the indoor Dutch Country Market at the intersection of Cottman Avenue and Large Street.

Like Reading Terminal, the Northeast's farmers market has a poultry stand (with fresh and cooked birds), a butcher (with hormone- and antibiotic-free meats, plus some seasonal organic vegetables), a rotisserie barbecue take-out (also selling hot pretzels and the trendy "smoky cheesers") and attractive displays of Dutch-country pickles, preserves, salads and baked goods.

For fall, there's pasteurized apple cider at a reasonable $1.50 a quart.

Along with the basics, you'll find some unusual neighborhood twists, most notably the honor system for single-serve snacks at Stoltzfus Salads. "Pay Here" says a sign.

With no one watching but your conscience, you drop your money into a PVC pipe and walk off with a sticky bun or a baggie of cookies.

Another special treat is the display of "gourmet smoked bison bones" next to Huyett's Meats.

Given the recent scare over melamine in imported pet food from China, owner Harvey Huyett says he's doing a brisk trade in the bones of Lancaster-bred bison. Like the people-food he sells, the bison chew toys are all-natural.

All of the vendors at the Dutch Country Market have legitimate Lancaster County bona fides, although not all of them are Amish. Jesse Blank, who runs Dienner's Poultry, is a Mennonite. Huyett is a Lancaster guy who used to work for an Amish vendor and bought the meat business when his old boss sold it.

"It was either buy it or be out of a job," he says. "I bought it." *

Dutch Country Market, 2301 Cottman Ave. Hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday, 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday.

- Becky Batcha

 

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