That special something

Local chefs' fave ingredients for '08

December 27, 2007|By BETH D'ADDONO, For the Daily News

ASK ANY chef worth his (Hawaiian sea) salt, "What's the secret of great food?" and the answer will always be: the best ingredients.

Assembling the finest, freshest and most unusual ingredients is the jumping-off point for truly memorable cuisine. Add culinary muscle, a flair for presentation and an instinct for flavor pairings and those ingredients go from terrific to positively awesome.

Here's a look at 10 ingredients that have chefs around town enthused about cooking in the New Year. Some are quirky, some reconceived favorites. All are delicious.

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Green papaya

Chef Ari Weiswasser is crazy about this unripe version of the tropical fruit native to Mexico. Popular in Southeast Asian cooking, green papaya is bland on its own but acts as a tremendous flavor carrier.

Weiswasser, a Gladwyne native whose resume includes Restaurant Daniel and Gilt in New York, will marry the julienne fruit with tuna, lemongrass, fish sauce, sugar and lime in a signature dish at Pearl, a Pan-Asian fusion restaurant opening at 1904 Chestnut St. next month.

"Green papaya easily takes on the flavor of a marinade while keeping its textural integrity," said Weiswasser.

Blue Foot chickens

At XIX, chef Marc Plessis cries fowl unless he's using a Poulet Bleu, a homegrown version of France's mythical poulet de Bresse, a breed favored at restaurants including Per Se and Alain Ducasse. "It tastes like a chicken is supposed to taste, not the fatty, mass-produced birds we're used to."

Free-range, and blessed with feet as blue as a booby's, these birds are a bit older, a tad gamier and about 30 percent leaner than the average chicken. The result of a partnership between a Canadian poultry breeder and a California farm cooperative, the birds are available through D'Artagnan, the Newark-based gourmet purveyor (go to www.dartagnan.com and type "Blue" in the search window).

"They're three times the price of a good chicken," said Plessis, "around $4 a pound. But this bird is so juicy and flavorful - it's the Porsche of chickens."

Whole-grain pasta

At Penne, the gem of an Italian restaurant tucked into the Inn at Penn in University City, executive chef Roberta Adamo is thinking about your health.

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