The bells: One more time

What a fine dining year it's been: A maturing Philadelphia scene enjoys confident second restaurants, exciting neighborhood action, Belgian pubs, and more tasty surprises.

December 30, 2007|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 10 of 10)

The picturesque old stone house has gotten a nice dose of TLC from its current owner, Donna Fitzgerald Robb, a longtime former chef at the much-missed Judy's Cafe. The affordable menu gives appealing New American updates to Judy's older take on eclectic comforts, but too many slips in execution held it back from its potential.

You can nibble fancy pigs in a blanket in the crushed-velvet booths at this highly styled restaurant-lounge near Washington Square. The appealing space feels like a less annoying, affordable take on an Old City hot spot, but the updated comfort foods rarely go beyond cutesy concepts to satisfying flavors. Hopefully, a new chef slated to begin in January will fulfill 707's real potential.

Story continues below.

The brothers Bynum, Benjamin and Robert, have moved their Old City blues club to a smaller but spiffier space near South Philly's riverfront. The colorful room offers improved sight lines, but the soul-food menu could use more gusto, consistency and ambition. Service also needs work.Reviewed March 11.


Craig LaBan

Best chef: Jose Garces.

Best restaurant: Osteria.

Best meal: A "farm table dinner" at Talula's Table.

Best ethnic delivery: Tiffin.

Best relocated classic: Fuji.

Best new BYOB: Blackfish.

Best single bite: 

Tinto's blue-cheese-smeared

"montadito" toast topped with duck confit wrapped in Serrano ham, crowned with a black cherry.

Best raw food: Scallop and watermelon seviche at Xochitl.

Best updated bubbe food: Veal kreplach with artichokes at Rae.

Best cheeseburger: The cheese-stuffed wonder at the Good Dog Bar.

- Craig LaBan

« Prev | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10
|
|
|
|
|