Blue Pear Bistro

Jim Barnes remembers David Fogleman the kid, as just a twentysomething pup, cooking with wide-eyed ambition at the Inn Keeper's Kitchen attached to his Dilworthtown Inn.

"He was constantly using all these expensive ingredients, experimenting with new food items and flavors from [magazines like] Art Culinaire," says Barnes, whose clientele at the classic inn might be described as anything but "experimental."

"I told him, 'You're killing me [on food cost],' " Barnes said. " 'If you'd like to go put someone else out of business, please, call me back when you figure it out.' "

Barnes retells the story with some glee now, several years later, only because Fogleman eventually did call him back. And the 30-year-old is now Barnes' chef once again, turning out satisfying comfort-food updates at Blue Pear Bistro, the affordable new annex opened next to the Dilworthtown in a historic general store.

Fogleman's full-circle journey was anything but usual. His young culinary exuberance did, in fact, begin to flourish, as Fogleman made a splash of rising-star note at the now-closed Palette in Northern Liberties. But that rise was abruptly cut short beneath a fateful bag of veal bones, whose heft herniated two spinal disks and sent the young cook under the surgeon's blade not once, but twice.

He was out of cooking four-and-a-half years. He sold Hyundai cars, among other things. And it was actually a sales call for a wine distributor that initially brought Fogleman back to the Dilworthtown Inn in November 2006. Then the conversations began. . . .

Is the back really healed? It remains to be seen. After a couple of satisfying meals in the Blue Pear's clubby upstairs dining room, devouring everything from wild-mushroom crepes to fork-tender short ribs with creamy grits, I sure hope so.

I know Barnes holds his breath every time Fogleman winces, because one thing now is abundantly clear: David Fogleman can still cook. And a few years of maturity have even allowed him to execute an affordable bistro menu (with virtually all items under $20) without sacrificing a commitment to diligent technique, quality ingredients, or the uncanny ability to create dishes that surprise.