On the Side: Hormones in milk: Don't ask, don't tell?

January 17, 2008|By Rick Nichols, Inquirer Columnist

HARRISBURG - When you've got 10,000 competitors showing off prize steers and goats and rodeo moves - a fair number of them teenage future farmers spending the night - you can bet hormones will enter the picture.

Not that anyone was mentioning that out loud here last week as the state Farm Show wrapped up its yearly run in the sort of balmy weather more associated with planting season.

In that let's-not-notice particular, though, the show was a metaphor for the dirty little secret roiling the Pennsylvania dairy industry this winter.

A lot of cows are being routinely injected with performance-enhancing drugs; synthetic hormones, to be precise.

But there's an official code of silence. No need to broadcast the fact on the side of a milk carton. In fact, best not to mention their absence (in all-natural milk), even, lest a consumer get the wrong impression; the drugs boost milk production, but they haven't in a single study been proven unsafe for humans.

As things stand - albeit unsteadily - Dennis Wolff, the state ag secretary, has ruled that the whole business is really none of your business; that milk is naturally replete with hormones, and without a reliable test to detect the Monsanto-made artificial extras, dairies who label it "Hormone-Free" or even "No Synthetic Hormones" are, well, making unverifiable or, worse, misleading claims.

This has not gone over well with some dairies - central Pennsylvania's Rutter's Dairy chief among them - that advertise their milk as free of added hormones. And it hasn't sat well with a number of retailers. Or with a slew of consumers freshly concerned about weird chemicals in food.

So instead of the hammer coming down for good on Jan. 1, as was planned, the no no-hormones labeling deadline has been postponed until Feb. 1; and a whiff of strategic retreat is in the air.

No current test has revealed a human health threat from Monsanto-ized milk. (In fact, ice cream lovers buying Ben & Jerry's no-added-hormone pints might better look to the saturated fat levels on the label if they're worried about their health.)

But as a former dairy chemist at the show pointed out, it took decades to pin down the human health hazards of formaldehyde and asbestos.

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