Discreet Diner: Roly Poly

Posted: January 20, 2008

It's three weeks into the new year; how's that weight-loss resolution going? One answer, ironically, may lie in going Roly Poly.

The "purveyor of fine sandwiches, soups and salads" in the Village at Cambridge Crossing in Mount Laurel (next to Border's) offers an excellent alternative to burgers, fries, and other calorie-laden fast food. The menu features more than 50 interesting hot and cold wraps, many of them lower-fat and heart healthy, served on flour or whole-wheat tortillas. The diet-conscious can opt for the small size, which will satisfy most appetites, especially with a side of soup.

But watch out, many of the made-to-order selections are deliciously laden with cheeses, bacon and dressings. You can be easily tempted into calorie trouble. And the nutritional information offered is based on the smaller-size sandwich, so calculate accordingly.

Savvy dieters would do well to "build your own" – picking among a long list of meat, cheese, vegetables and toppings. That's a great option for picky kids, too, although there's also a children's menu.

We wanted to try some of the unusual combinations created by the Atlanta chain. The Mount Laurel franchise, owned by brothers Ron and Todd Glickman, is the only one in New Jersey. It opened in 2004.

Basil cashew chicken, one of New Jersey's top sellers, is layered basil chicken salad, lettuce, tomato, a (delightfully perfect) avocado and alfalfa sprouts. A profusion of salty, crunchy whole cashews provided a wonderful contrast. A cup of creamy baked potato soup was smoky with bacon.

The hickory chicken won top honors twice from our review teams. It was melted cheddar over chicken, onion, mushrooms, bacon and a sweet barbecue sauce. It was served with ranch dressing, a surprising complement that really worked. A side of Italian wedding soup brimmed with pastina and mini-meatballs and swirled with escarole. "Some of the best I've tasted," my partner said.

We also liked the Georgia-inspired peachtree melt, which coupled Black Forest ham and melted Swiss and brie with peach relish. It's served with a side of horseradish sauce.

OK, so we strayed seriously from dietary discipline. See what I mean about temptation? The walnut spinach salad ($6.95) got me back on track. Atop baby spinach were chunks of walnut, crumbled bleu cheese, avocado, sun-dried tomatoes, and mushrooms. Honey mustard dressing came on the side.

Other favorites among Mount Laurel patrons include the chicken fajita, ranch roast, California turkey, and, not surprisingly, the Philly melt.

Sandwiches range from $3.95 to $6.45. Add a fountain drink and chips (make them baked!) for $2.95 or an 8-ounce cup of one of four soups each day for $3.95. Pasta, potato salad and cole slaw also are available.

Choose carefully, and Roly Poly can keep you from becoming just that.


Discreet Diner: Roly Poly

4070 Dearborn Circle, the Village at Cambridge Crossing, Mount Laurel.

Phone: 856-231-0615.

Hours: Monday-Friday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Reservations: No.

Handicapped accessible: Yes.

Parking lot: Yes.

Children's menu: Yes.

Cocktails: No.

On the Web: www.rolypoly.com.


The Discreet Diner is a member of the Inquirer staff and welcomes your comments at discreetdiner@phillynews.com.

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