Table Talk: Manayunk restaurant scene is revving up again

January 31, 2008|By Michael Klein, Inquirer Columnist

While working at Bourbon Blue the last few years, Joe Keough says, he sensed the need for something a touch earthier in Manayunk: a neighborhood-type tavern with decent food. But not too downscale, either.

"If you're not into Red Bull and vodka and walking on broken glass, where do you go?" he asked.

He and Bourbon Blue alum Jeff Bender took over the corner spot up the block - at Main and Rector - that most remember as Main-ly Desserts (followed by the short-lived Fish Tank on Main and Sole).

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Manayunk Tavern (4247 Main St., 267-335-2121), with Dennis Selfinger in the kitchen, aims at mid-20s to mid-30s with two dozen microbrews (six on tap), a decent wine list, and comfort food (all but the twin filet under $20). It's open from 4:30 till 2 a.m. weekdays, and noon to 2 a.m. weekends; lunch will start in the spring. Kitchen is open late.

Manayunk seems to be on an upswing again. In 1997, the rehabbed commercial strip off the Schuylkill seemingly was on fire after a decade of installing hot, new restaurants. Overwhelmed residents (supported by restaurateurs who felt that more competition was a bad thing) implored their district councilman, a guy named Michael Nutter, to press for a five-year moratorium on newcomers. Meanwhile, many restaurateurs moved elsewhere - to Old City, Northern Liberties, Queen Village and Collingswood.

Among projects now on the books:

Cactus Bar & Grill (4243 Main St.) is planned as a Southwestern restaurant/bar two doors from the Manayunk Tavern this spring. Owners have the Bayou next door.

Chabaa Thai will open Mango Moon (4161 Main St.), an Asian fusion/small plater, this summer.

Couch Tomato on Rector just off Main Street plans to expand this summer with Tomato Bistro. It'll have 80 seats in a new upstairs cafe, plus a liquor license.

Bruce Cooper, who owns Jake's, is going next door (to 4367 Main) with a wine bistro this spring.

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