Las Bugambilias

Las Bugambilias has some great fish dishes, too, including a grouper fillet done in the style of Molina's native Veracruz, a tomato, olive and caper sauce that could be Italian if not for the swelling heat of mild "blondie" guero chiles. Finely minced rings of more incendiary chiles de arbol lent the garlic and lime sauce for whole fried tilapia ajillo a lingering savor.

With such bold tastes, the kitchen has a number of satisfying sweets to quell the heat. The coconut-flavored flan de coco, fringed with white coconut shreds, was indulgently creamy, much preferable to the bumpier custard of the choco-flan. There were also decent chocolate and vanilla variations on tres leches.

But the best dessert, by far, was the crisply fried churros, whose sugar-dusted, ridge-lined sticks were still puddinglike at the center. With a caramel dip of goat's-milk cajeta on the side, and a hot cup of orange- and cinnamon-scented café de olla to wash them down, I found it hard not to devour them all.

I never tire of great Mexican food, even now that we have such variety. Add Las Bugambilias to our growing list of favorites.